Peter Lilienthal: Where Everybody Knows His Name

If it’s been some time since you’ve made your way to the chic fourth-floor aerie that is the home of Cosmos at the Graves 601 Hotel—you should return. If you enjoy inspired dining, it’s worth every penny. A truly talented team runs things: executive chef Stephen Trojahn, Swedish–born chef de cuisine Hakan Lundberg, and pastry expert Khanh Tran. A recent tasting menu blew me away. Among the over-the-top dishes were a knock-your-socks-off ahi tartare, a black Sambuca foie gras torchon, rare-seared Wagyu beef, and confit of halibut. Sophisticated. Delectable.

I never cease to be amazed that so many people have never heard of Heartland. Owner-chef Lenny Russo and his charming spouse, Mega Hoehn, (who runs the front of the house), are a dynamic, energetic duo, and the place has an irresistible romantic intimacy. Sayeth the menu: “[Heartland] features regional cuisine that employs indigenous and cultivated ingredients from the American and Canadian Midwest to create a nightly changing menu featuring two degustations along with
a la carte selections . . . (we) have shunned mainline purveyors in favor of small family farmers and artisanal producers.” Translation: The kinds of dishes featured here include whitefish, trout, venison, wild boar, foie gras, free-range chicken, and a whole host of interesting ingredients imaginatively prepared, impeccably plated, and sustainably raised. Russo’s soups and sauces are particularly sublime.

Although open only a couple of months at this writing, Heidi’s is already easily deserving of being on this list. Owner-chef Stewart Woodman—an alum of Le Bernardin and Lespinasse who was named a Food & Wine best new chef in 2006—eschews the complex and expensive dishes that were his stock-in-trade at Levain and Five and has developed an affordable, creative menu. The buzz spread quickly about Woodman’s Buffalo shrimp, his vegetarian pasta “Bolognese” with porcini mushrooms substituted for meat, and the tender, boneless, short-rib “filet.” The former Pane Vino Dolce spot remains cramped, but there’s an abundance of warmth and charm here.

Despite the presence of several incredible restaurants, for many diners University Avenue remains a mysterious and ominous destination. Krua Thailand is an outstanding example of what people are missing: The tiny, welcoming, family spot serves what I consider the best Thai food around. Whether it’s the superlative green curry, outstanding noodle dishes, or savory soups, the food is uniformly aromatic and flavorful. The décor is nothing to write home about, but with food this good, who cares? Krua is unlicensed, so pick up a bottle of wine next door.

La Belle Vie is on any serious foodie’s short list. It’s only a matter of time before chef Tim McKee receives a long-overdue James Beard award. Whether it’s something as simple as roasted beet salad or as elegant as seared squab, McKee’s culinary magic will leave you in awe. Anyone who kvetches about the prices doesn’t know what the equivalent buys in Chicago or on the coasts. And with welcoming maitre d’ and sommelier Bill Summerville at the door, it’s no snob house. This is a place we don’t visit nearly as often as we should.

For years, Chinese-food lovers pined for a place that featured a credible Sichuan bill of fare. Last year we got it with Little Szechuan—a real-deal University Avenue storefront. Bamboo shoots with spicy oil, fish fillet with tofu in spicy broth, Chung King chili shrimp, and beef stew with spicy hot sauce are guaranteed to set your taste buds tingling. Little Szechuan is clean, comfortable, and definitely a cut above the University standard.