Food Lovers Guide: Excelsior

Excelsior, just 30 minutes from the inner metro, is a fine jaunt for those of us “born too late.” Pretty Victorian homes and restored brick storefronts along Water Street echo genteel summers gone by. A refurbished steamboat offers excursions, and streetcars shuttle visitors around. Up-tempo boutiques and antique shops make for nice strolling. Excelsior is a great day trip and a good eating town, from morning to night. Here’s our lowdown.

Photo by Travis Anderson	Musicians Matty O’Reilly and Tom Peterson fashioned 318 Café, a cozy place to eat and play. With rows of wooden tables and blond wood cabin décor, this sweet spot serves top-notch coffee in the morning along with egg dishes, scones, and muffins. Lunch and dinner menus focus on rustic pizzas (Serrano ham, pear, chevre, and spinach, with balsamic reduction), hearty soups, and hot sandwiches (roast beef on brioche with fresh mozzarella). Everything is made from scratch on site or at sister restaurant The Green Room in Waconia. A savvy list of craft beers and smart wines is nicely priced. Live music begins at 8 pm. 318 Water St., 952-401-7902
Photo by Travis Anderson	Step into the floury, buttery elegance of Patisserie Margo. Like its Edina sister, Margo bakes delicate tarts (lemon, berry), substantial baguettes (with just enough tooth to suggest a double-rise), and a truffle-dense flourless torte, plus darling glistening berry tartlettes that demand attention. Take Margo’s sandwiches and salads to a picnic by the lake. No evening hours. 284 Water St., 952-746-2232
Photo by Travis Anderson	Upscale yet casual, the white tablecloth Italian bistro Biella is a Tuscan-inspired space of warmly lit, distressed earthen walls and a relaxed, friendly air. Its Italian menu of hand-thrown pizzas and pastas strays nicely into items such as caramelized sea scallops in Thai coconut curry and a good flatiron steak. Check out Biella’s special events, such as Scotch and cigar evenings held at the nearby Bird House Inn. No lunch. 227 Water St., 952-474-8881
“Every small town in Ireland has a public house,” says Dermot Cowley, Old Sod native and owner of Jake O’Connor’s Public House (as well as O’Donovan’s Irish Pub and Lola’s Lake House). This spiffy, comfortable, convivial pub (with fireplace and stained-glass snugs) serves up a long list of brews (imported and local) and lighthearted Irish fare. Find comfort in a hearty potato soup with bacon, mini tenderloin sandwiches, or any of the meat pies (shepherd’s, chicken, beef, and Murphy’s). 200 Water St., 952-908-9650
Photo by Travis Anderson	Just off the lake, at the bottom of Water Street, Yumi’s Sushi Bar is a tiny delight with raw blond-brick walls, high ceilings, and enormous platters of artful, imaginatively seasoned sushi rolls and sashimi, all impeccably fresh. Don’t mess with the teriyaki, tempura, or noodle dishes unless you have an aversion to raw fish. There’s a strong list of beer, wine, and sake to wash it all down. The wait staff (and Yumi herself) are helpful, but the place doesn’t take reservations and can be packed in high season. No lunch, closed Sunday. 28 Water St., 952-474-1720
Photo by Travis Anderson	Grab a bag of goodies at Simply Nuts, a candy store for kids of all ages. (But be warned, it won’t be a quick stop if you have kids in tow.) There’s plenty of penny candy as well as premium chocolates to choose from. 217 Water St., 952-401-8699
Photo by Travis Anderson	After a day on the lake, wander up to Lick’s Unlimited, an old-fashioned, homey place with super premium ice creams (don’t miss the chocolate peanut butter) served in freshly baked waffle cones. 31 Water St., 952-474-4791

There are also some worthy options beyond Water Street—and they’re every bit as deserving of your attention.

+ Boaters can tie up at Maynard’s, a crowded affair with fancy drinks, brews, and a sprawling menu. Your best bet is brunch. 685 Excelsior Blvd., 952-470-1800

+ Joey Nova’s serves East Coast–style thin-crust pizza and grilled subs from a strip mall storefront. It’s not a lot to look at, but pies this good are hard to find in the lake ’burbs. 5655 Manitou Rd., Tonka Bay, 952-405-2700

+ Scott Foster’s Hazellewood Grill And tap Room serves some of the best upscale tavern fare in the West ’burbs from cozy stone and wood–lined dining rooms (plus a big bar). The setting is not lakeside, but from the killer scallop sliders to the meatloaf to the best coleslaw in the metro area, it hardly matters. Open breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 5635 Manitou Rd., Tonka Bay, 952-401-0066