Food Lovers Guide: Stillwater

Every season seems to be the right one in Stillwater. Even now as you stroll the generous green expanse bordering the St. Croix River, kids toss candy-colored Frisbees, and patio umbrellas pinpoint the bars. Zigzagging down Stillwater’s narrow Myrtle Street, some people see only antique stores. Me, I head straight for Stillwater’s good eats.

All sass and pimento-fired jerk heat, Smalley’s Caribbean Barbeque and Pirate Bar serves up genuine Jamaican chicken, ribs, pulled pork, and beef, plus tender corn fritters and fried green tomatoes. Wash the food down with mojitos or frosty beers from the Pirate Bar. 423 S. Main St., 651-439-5375

Snuggled into the hillside, Luna Rossa Trattoria & Wine Bar is a dim, intimate hideaway. The space was once home to the Joseph Wolf Brewery, and visitors can still take cave tours covering regional history and brewing traditions. The candle-lit dining room, with exposed fieldstone walls of Tuscan inspiration, serves hand-rolled pastas and Florentine steaks. Order a good Chianti and enjoy a romantic date. 402 S. Main St., 651-430-0560

Smack in the middle of town, Marx Fusion Bistro and Wine Bar, a vivacious bistro with a sleek black bar, serves a range of pan-Asian-Euro plates such as duck confit crostini, blackened scallops with soba noodles, and an inspired, lyrical wine list. Innovative lunch entrées of lively salads and fresh pastas (about $8–$10 a plate) are a steal. Weekends can be crowded, but Tuesday nights you can find live music and no wait. 241 S. Main St., 651-439-8333

The Kitchen is a sophisticated new bistro in the old Stone’s space, with Chef Jim Kyndberg (formerly of Bayport Cookery) at the helm. The menu promises "American brasserie" fare with classics such as roast chicken, steak, and seafood as well as house-made charcuterie. 324 S. Main St., 651-342-1556

Funky and cheap, Shane’s on Main serves up ice cream and merlot from a counter in its sunny brick space. Nosh on wraps, burgers, salads, panini, and pastries on the main floor or find a cozy perch in the couch-filled loft. 215 S. Main St., 651-351-2441

Savories started serving local fare long before it became a trend. Chef-owner/partners Jeff and Kristin Klemetsrud’s Avignon sensibility (a dining room of greens, reds, and robin’s-egg blues) suits the Mediterranean menu of tapenade-crusted rack of lamb with honey and cumin-charred carrot gratin. For weekend breakfasts, the fluffy cornmeal johnnycakes with melting raspberry butter and maple syrup carry the day. Closed Monday. 108 N. Main St., 651-430-0702

Aunties, mums, and little girls will thrill to Aprille’s Showers Tea Room, all doilies, pretty teapots, and fancy spoons. It hosts themed Mitford and American Girl events, daily lunches, and full Devonshire teas with all the accoutrements. Closed Monday, no dinner. 120 N. Main St., 651-430-2004

The spacious patios at the Dock Café and the Freight House play to an outdoor crowd. The Dock serves hearty sandwiches, burgers, and formal entrées (blackened salmon, sirloin). 425 E. Nelson St., 651-430-3770. The Freight House, in a stately historic freight depot, turns into a lively nightclub come Friday and Saturday starting at 9 pm. Wednesday (starting at 4 pm), eat all the beer-battered fried fish and cornbread you please. 305 S. Water St., 651-439-5718

Domacin Restaurant & Wine Bar, a glass jewel box perched on the hill overlooking downtown, is glowing and chic. Its 300-bottle wine list features Italian, Spanish, and Oregon vintners, with many wines available by the glass. Sample such winsome local specialties as wild rice soup with wild boar. Dinner only. 102 S. 2nd St., 651-439-1352

At The Bikery, a bike shop combined with a bakery, Belgian native Olivier Vrambout peddles premium wares. I can attest to the buttery, flaky perfection of his fresh croissants (get there early; they go quickly). Try the daily lunch soup, made from scratch, then take home a crusty baguette, tender fruit-filled galette, or a mighty chocolate brownie. You can also sign up for a Saturday ride through the gorgeous St. Croix Valley. 904 S. 4th St., 651-439-3834

Phil’s Tara Hideaway sits in a little log cabin, once a speakeasy (favored by Dillinger and Ma Barker, but weren’t they all?), and serves good steaks and strong martinis. But it’s the Greek specialties you don’t want to miss—pastitsio, spanakopita, gyros, lamb grilled with oregano and lemon, and freshly rolled dolmades. Closed Monday. 15021 N. 60th St., 651-439-9850