Spoonriver

Brunching at Spoonriver is a Goldilocks–like mission; it seems hard to have an experience that’s just right. This is a good restaurant, and a strikingly beautiful one at that. But the two-tops are uncomfortably small and the servers seem disengaged from the restaurant’s mission of advancing organic food by supporting local producers and growers. My questions— ranging from “Is that lime zest in my French toast?” to “Are there currants in this burger?”—were always answered with a cavalier, “I don’t know.” (The answer to both questions was yes.)

Qualms aside, there are plenty of compelling reasons to brunch here. There’s the flexible menu that suits a multitude of tastes and moods. You want yogurt and granola? Check. Your guest is all charcuterie with duck and chicken liver pâté? Go for it. There’s the option of bookending your meal by wandering through the vibrant Mill City Farmers’ Market and taking in the spectacular riverfront locale. And let it be known that there’s some serious ingenuity going on behind the bar. Sipping a piquant Bloody River (ask for it with Absolut Peppar) and nibbling (OK, scarfing) a plate of simple poached eggs on a sunny Saturday morning on the patio overlooking the market is as close to “just right” as you probably need.

750 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-436-2236. Brunch Sa 8 a.m.–2 p.m., Su 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Order: Fischer Farms smoked ham and chive omelet, quesadilla with free-range chicken and Greek kayseri cheese, Spoon burger (flavor-packed lamb with Moroccan spices), coffee cake and scones, and buckwheat crepes with smoked salmon and dill sour cream.
Libations: Coffee, Lavazza espresso, Tea Source teas, juice, and sodas.

Brunchmeter: 3.5 out of 5