Nicollet Island Inn

There are two kinds of brunch: sloppy brunch and occasion brunch. One is rolling out of bed for a jug of coffee and huevos rancheros. The other is a more genteel affair requiring combed hair and a few good talking points for Grandma. Piano music, charming river views, and free-flowing champagne put the Nicollet Island Inn squarely in the latter camp. In fact, it probably owns the category. The Nic has a distinct elegance, be it slightly nostalgic and tinged with shopworn paisley décor. The menu suits its old-world scheme, but it nonetheless satisfies a modern taste for quality ingredients, attractive plating, and appropriate portions.

Brunch begins with a lovely basket of freshly baked pastries and Hope Creamery butter followed by your choice of four courses that run the gamut of sweet and savory. A few highlights include a terrific eggs Benedict with Fischer Farm ham and choron sauce (a tomato-kissed béarnaise), a lively roasted beet salad with goat cheese and fried shallots, and a popular chicken paillard with a soft-boiled egg. Chef Erick Harcey is a nut for charcuterie, so try it and test his mettle. The tarte tatin lacked the buttery pastry or luscious caramel apple quality to make it memorable, but the early courses, gracious service, and an air of “special” carried the day.

95 Merriam St., Mpls., 612-331-1800. Su 9:30 AM–1:45 PM.

Order: Charcuterie with house pickles and hibiscus mustard, petit croque monsieur, crème brûlée French toast, bouillabaisse, and the cured-smoked salmon with bagel chips and cream cheese—$30 per person, which includes bottomless coffee and mimosas or champagne, is a reasonable point of entry to a fine-dining experience.

Libations: Caribou coffee, fresh orange juice, a decent Bloody Mary, and a few specialty cocktails, including a pear cooler with Grey Goose la Poire and sparkling pear cider.

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