The Craftsman

In his dedication to The Waste Land, T. S. Eliot famously refers to Ezra Pound, the poem’s ruthless editor, as il miglior fabbro, the finer craftsman. I’m not trying to invent connections between eggs and imagism or mimosas and modernists—but The Craftsman’s chef, Mike Phillips, is similarly comfortable with debts of gratitude. It’s part of what makes a nice brunch at his restaurant. The menu—in keeping with kitchen economy—is basic and relies heavily on eggs and bread. There are omelets, brioche French toast, strata, and a mouth-wateringly delicious quiche—creamy, light, and sumptuous with a perfect buttery crust. It’s also, as Phillips points out, adapted from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon cookbook. Homey cinnamon rolls with a special icing of butter, powdered sugar, and brewed coffee are a homage to Phillips’ grandmother. Instead of a bloody, why not opt for a distinctive and refreshing apéritif? Try the Lillet cooler with a splash of 7UP and OJ. The American Arts and Crafts Movement eschewed opulence, favored simplicity, and sought to empower artisans. The Craftsman’s brunch crew is all over this—nothing particularly ambitious, just simple and good.

4300 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-722-0175. Brunch, Su 10 a.m.–3 p.m.

Order: Cream scones with house-made jam, quiche, a fried-egg sandwich, and sides of strata or grits. Pork rillettes (heavy with allspice) make a nice appetizer to share.

Libations: Coffee, espresso, house bloody, Alexis Bailly Ratafia and soda, Lillet cooler.

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