The Strip Club

My husband says The Strip Club serves hangover food and doesn’t apologize for it. I didn’t totally agree until I saw the delight on his face as he ordered and consumed the Loaded Burger—a burly assembly of beef, mushrooms, bacon, fried egg, and a slab of Camembert. I suppose I could’ve been more alert. I was having the Morning After scampi, and our companion was happily toppling the Logger’s Tower, an impressive stack of cakes, grilled ham, and eggs. But behind the fantastically panacean menu—also full of caramel rolls, steak, French toast, smoked salmon hash, an egg-drop noodle bowl, Irish Breakfast, and more—lies a serious brunch. These guys know what’s up, and it shows (the only thing I couldn’t get behind was a garish pickled egg white). Chef JD Fratzke’s brunch moves well “beyond the same old eggs Benedict crap” to realize the potential in a weekend midday repast. So go freak out on Friday or Saturday night, then treat yourself to awesomeness on the brutal morning after.

378 Maria Ave., St. Paul, 651-793-6247, domeats.com, Sa–Su 9 a.m.–2 p.m.

ORDER: The Benghazi Chickpea Bowl, Loaded burger, Irish Breakfast, bacon

LIBATIONS: Standard coffees, espresso (no decaf espresso), juices, delicious bloody marys. The art of the cocktail is taken seriously here.

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