Meritage

Let’s clear something up—the correct pronunciation of Meritage rhymes with heritage. Don’t sweat it, though, if you prefer the Frenchier-sounding Merry-taszh. Even Meritage chef-owner Russell Klein admits to the latter’s phonetic superiority. The word, derived from merit and heritage, refers to high-end American wines blended from a variety of historic Bordeaux grapes. Klein’s St. Paul brasserie is of course a similar marriage of American and French traditions. Brunch here is a main event. Klein and his wife, Desta, are self-professed “brunch people,” and it shows. Their spread includes perfectly turned-out omelets (Omelet technique is a point of pride for Klein and his staff. So are French fries and spicy bloody marys. What’s not to love?), crème fraîche pancakes with strawberries, a memorable eggs Benedict, beignets, salad niçoise, and a corned beef hash so good it just may lift your spirit, ease professional aches, and carry you through the week until you can return to have it again. That corned beef hash, an economical New England leftovers dish, stands out on this elegant menu as an expression of Meritage’s real raison d’être—serving good food.

410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-222-5670, Sa.–Su., 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

ORDER: Corned beef hash, moules frites, omelets, brioche French toast, beignets, eggs Benedict, house hamburger (all of which are likely to taste better on Meritage’s terrace—summer brunch alfresco overlooking Rice Park!).

BRUNCHMETER: