Blackbird

In his book Setting the Table, restaurateur Danny Meyer (Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern) say hospitality is the foundation of his business model. Hospitality, he writes, is all about being on the guest's side.  Service can be cold and mechanical, whereas hospitality is irrepressibly human. It is eye contact, a smile, and a warm hug. Ok, maybe not a literal hug, but hospitality leaves you feeling cared for. Blackbird's husband and wife owners, Chris Stevens and Gail Mollner, get this. They know that their made-from-scratch breakfast basics such as whole-grain cakes, frittatas, and French Toast will taste even better if guests feel at ease while dining. " We want people to feel accepted here," Mollner says. "No condescension. Blackbird is all come as you are. We just want to feed you something delicious." Take, for example, Huevos Colleen O'Brien. O'Brien, a Blackbird server, discovered that the huevos rancheros tasted better with the addition of avocado and chorizo, so she began recommending it to her tables. Its popularity soared, but Mollner noticed that people were spending close to $14 for $6.95 dish after the pricey add-ons. She and Stevens promptly put the new version on the menu, named it for their inventive server, and dropped the price to $9.95. That's hospitality, too.

815 W. 50th St. Mpls., 612-823-4790, blackbirdmpls.com, Sa-Su 8AM—2PM

Order: Huevos Colleen O'Brien, ham frittata, hash browns, muffins, lunchy sandwiches, and whole-grain pancakes with sesame butter.

Libations: B & W Coffees, Bellini, mimosas, or the refreshing cava with strawberry purée.

Brunchmeter: