Barbette

Running a restaurant is something of a high-wire act. Barbette, named for a Texas-born aerialist and drag performer who found fame in Paris in the 1920s and 1930s, is no exception. Nearly nine years into the show Barbette has a cheery Francophilic circus vibe, a well-known commitment to local, seasonal food, and enough clout to be the type of place you can bring out-of-town friends for a reliably good experience. But balancing on the wire is tough, and the performer falters from time to time. Brunching at Barbette is most fun when you understand the show and remember to keep your expectations in check. Pastries, baked fresh in-house—something curiously not promoted by the staff or the menu—are a nice way to start, particularly the croissants and muffins. Lemon ginger scones are a holdover from Café Wyrd days (ditto the coffee blend). Other highlights include a fantastic eggs Benedict made with Fischer Farms' addictive, salty ham; crisp Röstie potatoes with onion and fresh herbs; a lovely gooey Croque Madame (ask for it with a fried egg); and a lighter poached egg and frisée salad tossed with chef Sarah Master's shallot-sherry vinaigrette. Some servers seems to have trouble reading the table (snark doesn't always play), but whatever. It's the price of admission

1600 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-827-571, barbette.com, Sa-Su 8AM—5PM

Order: Croissant, eggs Benedict, pommes frites, and salad Nicoise.

Libations: Good bloody marys.

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