501 Club

My book editor friend, a regular at the 501 and 331 clubs, describes Jon Oulman as dapper—debonair even. Oulman, a longtime hairstylist, owns and operates 501 and 331 with his son, Jarret. Though the Oulman aesthetic is careful, admirable, and distinct (think pocket squares and Harlequin Great Danes), it thankfully doesn’t inform the scene at his bars. We know too well the peril of purveying “scene” (ahem, Nick & Eddie) versus simply selling food and drink. This is why I’m excited about the surprisingly hearty and service-focused brunch at 501. Oulman teamed up with his old friend and journeyman chef Rick Truax (formerly of J.D. Hoyt’s and Nye’s) to create a menu that makes you look twice, as in “Really? I can get this here?” Truax buys local when he can and makes absolutely all of his rib-sticking delights from scratch. Highlights include a baked egg casserole with smoked ham and cream-soaked ciabatta, a competent eggs Benedict, thick-cut hash with corned beef and Yukon golds (delicious, but I wished the hash was more finely chopped), monkey bread French toast, and Swedish pancakes. The Oulman-Truax hospitality is icing on the cake, and substitutions are always welcome. “People like breakfast the way they like it,” Truax says. “It’s my job to give them what they want, and to make it taste good.”

501 Washington Ave. S., Mpls., 612-338-3848, 501.mn. Sa-Su from 10 a.m. Limited menu on Vikings home game days.

Order: Chicken hash, lemon ricotta pancakes, baked egg casserole with ham or salmon.

Libations: Straightforward coffee, bloody mary (order it spicy).

Brunchmeter: