The St. Paul Grill

This is one of the Twin Cities’ most popular brunches. There was a time when it was also one of the best. It’s a lovely room. The romance of Rice Park and the hospitalitarian air of the hotel make you feel as though you’re in benevolent, capable hands—which you are, for the most part. Brunch begins with a festive glass of sparkling wine or a mimosa and a giant, fresh-baked caramel roll. I was elated, but my companion correctly pointed out that the pastry was dry. Good, but dry. It didn’t help that our server needed to be reminded to bring butter. And coffee. Our eggs were fine, though the Benedict missed. Better offerings include the wonderfully luxe cream hash browns, a fresh salad with pulled chicken, and the popular beer-battered walleye. The St. Paul Grill sells service, tradition, and American classics—all decent enough for the patron who seeks consistency and familiarity with a neatly scrubbed hint of decadence. But at premium prices and with a premium ambience, the food and service don’t hit the same high notes.

350 Market St., St. Paul, 651-224-7455, stpaulgrill.com. Brunch 10:30 am–2 pm Su.

Order: The Grill Eggs, cream hash browns, beer-battered walleye.

Libations: Mimosa, pepper-infused bloody mary, Bellini, coffee, sodas.

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