Harvest Dinner

When Steven Brown takes a break from manning the busy kitchen at Levain, he spends his downtime well. One retreat is his in-laws’ house, a few miles southwest of Rochester. Stevan and Sandra Kvenvold’s abode is a picturesque country home with a river on one side and bluffs on the other. Brown is so grateful he’s able to hang out there, he often offers his culinary skills in return. One fall day, he said to his mother-in-law, “On my next day off—I’ll cook for you.” After a few phone calls, the little family dinner grew and “six people turned into thirty-six.” The professional chef scratched his head and sharpened his knives—the party was on.

Truth be told, Brown does a lot of private catering—as, he says, fifty bucks an hour is tough to turn down—so planning the menu wasn’t hard. His creed is “something old, something new,” sticking to trusted techniques while stepping up to new flavors. “I don’t experiment too much on someone else’s time and money,” he says. “I have to be confident I can execute it all.” Even though he doesn’t charge family, he always puts a lot of effort into the menu, selecting a variety of coordinating dishes. He decided on a harvest theme—not traditional Thanksgiving fare—of seasonal and comfort foods. About a week before the dinner, he planned a menu that included a few things, such as red wine– braised short ribs, he could prepare in advance so he could mingle with guests during the party.

On the crisp autumn afternoon, friends and family came from Rochester and the Twin Cities, anticipating a very leisurely evening. Everyone roamed the property—kids, dogs, and Percheron horses included—eventually strolling down by the river for cocktail hour. Brown set out red and white wines, plus buckets of assorted beers for a self-serve bar. Sandra ran out of wine glasses, so she added casual jelly jars to accommodate the crowd and offer a touch of the farm to the décor. People mingled under the grape-vine-covered trellises, nibbling from the platters of goat-cheese balls stuffed with chorizo or quince. Brown took breaks from “slaving over the stove” to pass around duck rillettes with fig and truffle oil on toast.

The Kvenvolds’ small house sits on a huge lot that’s part of the old Mayo estate, and on this particular night, a lot of curious cooks were crowded into the galley kitchen, watching as Brown braised the vegetables, reheated the ribs, and mashed the potatoes. Nearby, a very eager little niece was eyeballing the pecan tarts long before the salad course—iceberg lettuce topped with Honeycrisp apples, walnuts, and a vinaigrette with cider and maple syrup. Each dish was set out on a long table for an easy buffet. To plate or not to plate is always a question. Unlike many sip-and-stir home cooks, most pros stay totally focused in the kitchen. But with the buffet advantage, a host/chef is finally able to rest and have a glass of wine with his guests—and Brown was certainly ready for it.

Groups and couples sat outside while others dined inside on the screened porch under the “Kvenvold” neon family crest. Tables were dressed in tablecloths that Sandra had made from kilim rugs and bolts of various fabrics. After dinner, a chill set in the air and everyone gathered around the campfire. Despite the scenic atmosphere, there was no late-night marshmallow-toasting. Instead, as Brown said, the crowd opted for “s’more beer.” A sure sign of a successful party.

Recipes
Short Ribs
Pecan Tart
Cheese Balls España
Duck Rillettes
Iceberg Lettuce with Apples, Cider, and Walnuts
Buttermilk Potato Purée
Butter Braised Vegetables