Salads

CAESAR

America’s salad was actually invented in 1924 at Caesar Cardini’s Tijuana, Mexico, restaurant. Cardini’s Caesar had no anchovy, but today the ubiquitous staple that used to be prepared tableside at clubby eateries is a palate punch of aggressive flavors adulterated in a variety of ways that includes adding meats and seafood. There are wan eggless and anchovy-free versions too, but in our book it’s not a caesar without an egg-based olive oil emulsion, lemon, garlic, Parmesan, black pepper, and a bit of anchovy, which we prefer mashed into the dressing, not laid in slimy fillets over the lettuce. Our favorites all had one thing in common—a dressing that integrated the primary ingredients into powerful balance.

Bacio, Ciao Bella, and Zelo
Perhaps the most deliciously subtle caesar in the Twin Cities, this is a version with quality cheese that really stands out, both in the balanced and creamy dressing and the generous lashings of Reggiano laid on before serving. Superb homemade croutons add the perfect grace note. Bonaventure Mall, Minnetonka, 952-544-7000; 3501 Minnesota Dr., Bloomington, 952-841-1000; Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-333-7000

Grand Cafe
This superb caesar is more like those served in Canada or Australia, where hard-boiled egg and bacon show up on the plate (Grand uses crispy pan- cetta). The dressing is creamy, with lemon the predominant tone. This unique local variant, though hardly classic, is a must for any addict. 3804 Grand Ave. S., Mpls., 612-822-8260

Nick and Eddie
Whole-leaf caesars generally are a sign of a restaurant more interested in presentation than flavor, but Steve Vranian’s caesar is a powerfully assertive mélange of top-quality ingredients (including great olive oil) that tastes as good as it looks. You will need a knife, though. 1612 Harmon Pl., Mpls., 612-486-5800

» Honorable Mention: Cossetta’s Italian Market & Pizzeria, D’Amico & Sons, Manny’s Steak House

COBB

According to legend, the Cobb salad was created at the Brown Derby restaurant in Hollywood in 1937. Owner Bob Cobb and his buddy Sid Grauman (yes, that Grauman) were hungry one night after the kitchen had closed. They began picking their way through the walk-in, grazing as they went, and Cobb started chopping up an avocado, some romaine, watercress, tomatoes, cold chicken breast, a hard-boiled egg, chives, and cheese and crowned it with some old-fashioned French dressing. He topped his concoction with crumbled bacon. The rest, as they say, was history. The salad became an overnight sensation (literally) with the Brown Derby faithful. In the Twin Cities, most versions come with something other than traditional French dressing and, sadly, watercress is a crucial ingredient that no one seems to care about, but there are some very nice renditions nonetheless.

Bulldog NE
This eatery pays homage to many of the classic American food icons and its Cobb comes with chicken, a stellar and authentic touch. 401 Hennepin Ave. E., Mpls., 612-378-2855

Mission American Kitchen & Bar
This power lunch powerhouse serves a superb Cobb in a setting that does the salad’s history justice. The striped plating motif is a classic touch. IDS Center, 77 S. 7th St., Mpls., 612-339-1000

Murray’s
Another superior setting for a salad with a storied pedigree. Murray’s Cobb is offered with your choice of dressing and comes with turkey instead of chicken. 26 S. 6th St., Mpls., 612-339-0909