Mpls.St.Paul Magazine Food + DiningMpls.St.Paul Magazine Shopping + StyleMpls.St.Paul Magazine Arts + EntertainmentMpls.St.Paul Magazine Travel + VisitorsMpls.St.Paul Magazine HomesMpls.St.Paul Magazine HealthGivingMpls.St.Paul Magazine WeddingsParties + Nightlife
Food + Dining

Best Breakfasts & Brunches: Chef-Driven Cafes

waffle du jour
Photo by Craig Bares

Serious chefs are finding their groove in these small neighborhood cafes where creativity and local, seasonal ingredients get top billing.

October 2009

By Beth Dooley

Bookmark and Share

Anodyne Coffeehouse (Beth's Pick)
4301 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-824-4300
The best oatmeal in town, no contest, cooked with wild rice in apple juice and a side of ripe pears, craisins, raisins, and pecans. Waffles (especially banana), crisped griddled sandwiches, and breakfast burritos with fresh salsa are good picks. This sleek place offers communal daily papers; kick back and sip your latte with The New York Times. Counter service.

Bon Vie
518 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651-287-0112
This small, discreet bistro serves a seasonal weekly menu, such as raspberry pancakes in July or apple pancakes in September, and a stalwart selection of omelets and scramblers. Owner Mary Zahasky also owns A Piece of Cake Bakery across the street, so go on, get a dessert.

Birchwood Café (Beth's Pick)
3311 E. 25th St., Mpls., 612-722-4474
We all love Birchwood, that paragon of local fare, for its amazing breakfast burritos and herb-spiked omelets. We love it especially during the Tour de France, when they bring in the big-screen TV so we can watch the race while eating warm baguettes slathered with sweet farm butter and fresh fruit jam. Counter service.

Blue Plate Restaurants
Edina Grill, Highland Grill, Longfellow Grill, 3 Squares Restaurant (Maple Grove)
This upbeat family of neighborhood diners serves up breakfast with individual flair. The spaces are bright, clean, and efficient, the food is scratch cooking, and the service is quick. All rely on locally grown veggies, eggs, meat, dairy, and fruit. From Edina’s golden ciabatta French toast, to 3 Squares’ roasted veggie hash (bright with peppers, onions, carrots, and crisp potatoes), all are variations on the same theme.

Butter Bakery Café (Beth's Pick)
3544 Grand Ave., Mpls., 612-521-7401
Butter keeps getting better. This joyful gem bakes the fluffiest biscuits, topping any scone. Get them warm to slather with butter or staked with sausage patties, eggs, and cheddar. Counter service.

Citizen Café (Beth's Pick)
2403 E. 38th St., Mpls., 612-729-1122
Craftsman-style and neighborhood comfy, Citizen serves scratch-made sausage, gravlax, and fresh bread along with its organic eggs. The rambling menu offers pulled pork, cheddar-chive biscuits, sirloin and eggs with savory marmalade, housemade granola, and more.

Colossal Café
1839 E. 42nd St., Mpls., 612-729-2377
The space is so teeny you need to be comfortable having your arm graze the chair of the person at the table behind you. Bread is baked fresh every day, the omelet with spinach and cream cheese is delicate, and the butter-rich scones, studded with fresh fruit or herbs and cheese, are dreamy. Counter service. Closed Monday/Tuesday.

Country Cake Cupboard and Café
491 N. Willow Dr., Long Lake, 952-476-0222
Here the short menu of breakfast favorites makes a solid, no-frills meal. Sure, get your eggs, sausage, bacon, pancakes, and toast, but don’t ignore the yeasty glazed doughnuts or tender muffins. Counter service.

French Meadow Bakery & Café
2610 Lyndale Ave. S., Mpls., 612-870-7855
One of the first to serve organic foods and make whole-grain artisan sourdough bread, French Meadow shines at breakfast. Order the eggs, smoked salmon, and hemp toast and choose a spot facing the street to watch the world whiz by on Lyndale. The Lindbergh terminal location redefines “airport food” but is a thin imitation of the original. Counter service.

Hell’s Kitchen
80 S. 9th St., Mpls., 612-332-4700
Hell has moved across the street and into the basement of an office building, leaving some of its nightmarish charm behind. But it’s kept those luscious lemon-ricotta pancakes, black currant bread pudding with crème Anglaise, dynamite bison sausage bread, and wild rice pudding—a taste of heaven on earth.

Hot Plate
5204 Bloomington Ave., Mpls., 612-824-4794
This inspired, retro-’50s diner is vibrant and welcoming. Try the pumpkin-buckwheat waffles, caramel apple French toast, or the hearty scramble with smoked Lake Superior trout. The vintage light fixtures and pastiche of mid-century kitsch induce a zany happiness, even on the coldest wintry morn.

Lucia’s Bakery (Beth's Pick)
1428 W. 31st St., Mpls., 612-825-9800
Adjacent to Lucia’s Wine Bar, this warm, sunlit café dishes up frittatas and quiche with genuine joie de vivre. The housemade granola, flaky croissants, wholegrain breads, popovers, and muffins are good to go. Don’t miss delicate crêpes oozing Nutella or herbs and cheese. There’s a range of renditions, from savory to sweet. Counter service.

Moose & Sadie’s
212 3rd Ave. N., Mpls., 612-371-0464
A brick warehouse building captures the sunlight and the neighborhood’s laid-back SoHo vibe. Beloved huevos rancheros are a staple in a menu that changes with the weather. Find pancakes, omelets, and the city’s best tender, buttery scones. Counter service.

Patrick’s Bakery & Café
Southdale Square, 2928 W. 66th St., Richfield, 612-861-7570
Savory, bacon-rich breakfast tarts, golden omelets, toothsome baguettes, and light croissants bring a taste of Paris to this warm dark-wood room with black and white French street scenes. Go on, grab a snowy meringue as you head out the door.

Swede Hollow Café
725 E. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-776-8810
Perched on a hillside above Swede Hollow Park, this cozy historic brownstone opens to a flower-filled, brick-lined patio where you can sip a latte, nibble a giant croissant egg sandwich, and watch the seasons change. The oven-baked French toast might double as a luscious dessert. Counter service.

318 Café
318 Water St., Excelsior, 952-401-7902
Sister to Waconia’s Green Room, this hip music spot serves healthy scratch breakfasts with panache. Kudos to the open-faced egg sandwich with melting queso fresco, black beans, and fresh corn salsa and the baguette stuffed with hard-boiled egg, cucumber, tomato, and avocado. All light wood and exposed brick, its big windows and pretty tables face the sunny side of the street.

Turtle Bread Company
4762 Chicago Ave., Mpls., 612-823-7333; 3421 44th St., Mpls., 612-924-6103
One of the first in town to bake slow-rise artisan bread, Turtle turns out an array of egg plates to go with its croissants, muffins, and scones. (But avoid the microwaved quiche with its soggy crust.) Counter service.

Wilde Roast Café
518 E. Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-331-4544
The crème brûlée French toast, a puffy mushroom omelet, and award-winning pastries should come with a warning: If you enjoy these near the blazing fire on that winsome loveseat, you may end up staying all day. Counter service.

Yum! Kitchen & Bakery
4000 Minnetonka Blvd., St. Louis Park, 952-922-4000
Though limited, the menu in this shiny white-and-red counter-café is something to crow about. Housemade English muffins make a big egg sandwich; also try the oatmeal brûlée (with its veneer of crackly brown sugar) or a tangy yogurt and granola parfait. Counter service.




mspmag.com | Mpls.St.Paul Magazine © 2011 MSP Communications, Inc. All rights reserved