Brunch Beat's Little Black Book

I do brunch the way others do yoga, weight machines, or psychotherapy. Weekend brunch is my centering place: a lens through which my companions and I read the world—our frustrations, depressions, delights, and, occasionally, triumphs. That’s a tall order, I realize, to affix to a stack of pancakes, but such is the restorative power of this repast. Here are nine brunches I can’t live without.

Baked Bliss Brunch: May Day Café
3440 Bloomington Ave. S., Mpls., 612-729-5627
I can barely remember a Saturday morning when I didn’t wake up craving a croissant. Too often I cheat the urge with a substandard doughnut, but when I have time to do it right, I grab the husband and schlep to Powderhorn Park’s May Day Café for the best buttery “kwahsohns” in town.

Deceptively Simple Brunch: Craftsman
4300 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-722-0175
It’s in the details—a limited menu crafted with care. The quiche is meltingly eggy and creamy, the cinnamon rolls are the ones chef Mike Philips grew up eating at his grandma’s, and the vibe is such that you can settle in and lounge.

Eggs Benedict Brunch: Zumbro Café
2803 W. 43rd St., Mpls., 612-920-3606
I can distill my affection for Zumbro to three points: eggs Benedict with pitch-perfect hollandaise and ham; a bright, clean blond wood space; and giant au lait cups filled with good coffee.

Girlfriend's Brunch: Lucia’s
1431 W. 31st St., Mpls., 612-825-1572
I can’t help it: I love Lucia and her brunch. The weekly changing menu has been changing the same way for years—a choice of omelet, farmers’ salad, entrée (usually an elegant prep of poached or scrambled eggs), and French toast or cakes—yet it always feels fresh and fabulous.

Hangover Brunch: Red Stag Supperclub

509 1st Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-767-7766
When you need brunch to be a lazy, boozy extension of Saturday night, head here to chill with a bloody and a plate of sausage and nicely scrambled eggs. Reality suspended.

Virtuous Brunch: Spoonriver 

750 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-436-2236
When I’m feeling attractive and virtuous, I head—like Narcissus to the pond—to Spoonriver. The elegant narrow space, Guthrie backdrop, and the politically, nutritionally correct menu make for a righteous spa brunch experience.

Rock and Roller Brunch: Triple Rock Social Club
629 Cedar Ave., Mpls., 612-333- 7399
Vegans, vegetarians, and those who are hard rock at heart, get thee to the Triple Rock for enormous breakfast burritos, extensive tofu offerings, and good drinks. Don’t expect doilies.

Rue de Paradis Brunch: Meritage
410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 612-222-5670
In the spirit of legit hospitality, Russell and Desta Klein want us to love brunch as much as they do—so they stop at nothing to make it happen. Find perfect rolled omelets, beignets, and heavenly corned beef hash. Get there during patio season.

Stick to Your Ribs Brunch: Modern Café
337 13th Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-378-9882
It turns out the pot roast is good at brunch, too. If you prefer to save your horseradish and braised meat for dinner, the chilaquiles and the pampered eggs with bacon, chives, and cream cheese are excellent alternatives.