Ethnic Dining

I can stay at home and grill a steak, roast a chicken, or boil up a bowl of pasta. But what I can’t do as easily is grind out a great green curry paste, mix up a rich batch of mole, or ferment a helping of fiery kimchi. Preparing ethnic specialties takes time, skill, and countless ingredients. Trying to narrow down the field to ten is a challenge of the first order, but the following picks are places that are uniformly interesting, reliable, and authentic. Their food is distinctive and, most of the time, easy on the pocketbook.  —Peter Lilienthal

Blue Nile
2027 Franklin Ave. E., Mpls., 612-338-3000
People either tend to love or hate Ethiopian cuisine. Indeed, everything—from the injera (the spongy unleavened bread that’s used to scoop up the food) to eating with your hands and the communal sharing of the assorted stews—takes some getting used to. But if you can get past these hurdles, there are a lot of savory flavors to be enjoyed. The Blue Nile gets my nod because the menu is slightly more extensive and the cooking has a bit more character. 
Best Bets Gosa-gosa sampler platters offered in meat, vegetarian, and combination options; stuffed pastry appetizers called sambusa.
Prime Time This is a large place, so it’s not difficult to score a table.
Pssst There's a separate lounge-bar with several interesting imported lagers and ales, featuring live music—most notably reggae and African bands—several nights a week.
But It would be nice if they could spruce up the drab interior.
Honorable Mention Addis Ababa, Fasika.

Cambodia Cheng Heng
448 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651-222-5577
This tiny Southeast Asian café ranks deservedly high on just about every local restaurant critic’s list. The kitchen knows how to knock out stir-fries that have “wok hay,” that elusive dusky, smoky taste. Whether it’s delicate spring rolls, hearty soups, or stellar stir-fries, everything is fresh as can be and bursting with lively flavors.
Best Bets The special rolled-noodle dish called loth chha, unusual Asian crepes called banh cheo, young ginger stir-fries, lime-flavored ground-beef salad called larb seur.
Prime Time The restaurant is usually lively at lunch and dinner.
Pssst Not familiar with the food? Ask for the helpful picture menu. Also, try the fresh, young coconut beverage—served right in the shell.
But There’s no wine or beer.

Christos
2632 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-871-2111
When the craving for Greek food strikes, I unfailingly head to this Eat Street taverna. Owners Gus and Carol Parpas are two of the most gracious restaurateurs in the Twin Cities and their lineup of Greek and Cypriot specialties is comprehensive and consistently well turned out. From saganaki, the conversation-stopping, flaming cheese appetizer, to the hummus, moussaka, and spanikopita, the menu is definitely a Greek classic.
Best Bets The four-dip sampler with fresh, warm pita; mussels with sumac sauce; tomato-basil soup.
Prime Time Christos is a real value proposition, so it tends to be bustling at both lunch and dinner.
Pssst The libation of choice is turpentine-edged retsina. Show your Homeric side and order a bottle.
But The food and ambience at Christos in St. Paul’s Union Depot aren’t nearly as good as they are at the original.
Honorable Mention Gardens of Salonica.

King’s Restaurant
1051 Moore Lake Dr. E., Fridley, 763-571-7256
This is definitely a place where it’s what’s on the inside that counts. And your insides will be rewarded too with the best Korean food around. If you’re not familiar with such rhythmic appellations as bi bim bop (Korean beef salad), galbi (grilled marinated short ribs), and the unjustly named yuk gea jang (a spicy chili soup with brisket and scallions), the cheerful staff will do its level best to span the language divide with halting descriptions.
Best Bets Bulgogi (grilled marinated meat), mandoo (special dumplings), seafood-pancake appetizer, fiery pork kimchi soup.
Prime Time Weekend evenings, starting around 9 p.m.
Pssst The lunch buffet is an incredible value.
But King’s is low on ambience and high on decibels when the crooning starts.
Honorable Mention Hoban, Mirror of Korea.

Krua Thailand
432 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651-224-4053
Although it’s small in size and family-run, when it comes to Thai food, this relatively unknown spot is without equal. The menu runs on for pages, and duds are few and far between. This isn’t Westernized, sugary glop, but the real thing prepared by an indigenous chef who knows what he’s doing.
Best Bets Green curry chicken, pork with red curry peanut sauce.
Prime Time Lunch hour, when hungry pols drift over from the Capitol.
Pssst Keep your eyes peeled for a governor sighting. This is reportedly one of Tim Pawlenty’s favorite lunch hangouts.
But It’s not a place to consider for a cozy, romantic tête-à-tête.
Honorable Mention Ruam Mit Thai, Taste of Thailand, True Thai.

Masa
1070 Nicollet Mall, Mpls.  612-338-6272
Although there are a number of great little Mexican taquerias scattered along Eat Street and East Lake Street, the Mexican story of the year is upscale and downtown. That’s how D’Amico & Partners chose to dive into regional Mexican cooking (see review, page 284). Chef Saul Chavez deserves high marks for authenticity and stylish presentations of classic recipes. And despite the high-rent location, prices are surprisingly modest.
Best Bets Chowder with corn, roasted poblano, and shrimp; crispy tostada appetizers topped with roast pork, cilantro, lime, and onion; roasted marinated pork shoulder baked in a banana leaf.
Prime Time Masa is packed at both lunch and dinner.
Pssst Spice up your entrée with the salsas that come with the tortilla chips or ask for a cup of Chef Chavez’s habanero salsa. Be careful, it’s incendiary!
But Just because the seasonings are subtle here doesn’t mean they are inauthentic. Mexican food is not uniformly spicy.
Honorable Mention El Mariachi, Salsa a la Salsa.

Que Nha
849 University Ave., St. Paul, 651-290-8552
In contrast to the majority of its competitors, newcomer Que Nha’s ambitious menu ranges far and wide: from do-it-yourself spring rolls and earthen-pot casseroles to grilled whole catfish and hot and spicy goat. This unassuming café is notably clean and has a friendly feel.
Best Bets Chã giò (classic fried Vietnamese spring rolls); bun (vermicelli noodle salads); hot spicy chicken; diced beef marinated with garlic.
Prime Time Lunch hour is when Que Nha really jumps.
Pssst If you order the grilled catfish, there’s a guarantee written in Vietnamese that promises, “If the skin isn’t crispy, your order is free.”
But The owners would like to have a beer and wine license, but their landlord reportedly won’t let them pursue one.
Honorable Mention Jasmine Deli, Pho Tau Bay, Quang.

Rainbow Chinese
2739 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-870-7084
There are scores of Chinese restaurants scattered around the metropolitan area. At a vast majority of them, the cooks aren’t worthy of being called chefs and there are only one or two standout dishes in the repertoire. What distinguishes Rainbow from the crowd is owner Tammy Wong, who has been presiding in the kitchen since 1987. Not only does she insist on using the freshest ingredients, but her array of deservedly popular preparations delivers distinctive flavors and textures.
Best Bets Sichuan won tons; curry-tinged chow mai fun noodles; whole steamed or deep-fried fresh fish; Chinese eggplant with garlic sauce.
Prime Time This can be a busy place, and it’s always wise to make a reservation.
Pssst Round up a group and ask Chef Wong to prepare a banquet dinner. She offers a lot of great dishes that aren’t on the regular menu, and there’s a private room to share them in.
But The menu is more limited than most Chinese restaurants’.
Honorable Mention Mandarin Kitchen, Shuang Cheng, Tea House.

Sakura
350 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-224-0185
Some Japanese restaurants do a great job with sushi and others do great job with sukiyaki, shabu-shabu, tempura, or teriyaki, but none prepares all as comprehensively and consistently as Sakura. Adding to the winning equation are the nicest dining environment in the category, charming owner Miyoko Omori, and veteran sushi chef Haruo Minokata, arguably the most classically trained specialist in the Twin Cities.
Best Bets Sushi.
Prime Time Pretheater, it can be busy, but there’s lots of seating.
Pssst Look around and spot Minnesota Wild players, SPCO musicians, or whoever’s starring at the Ordway.
But On Sundays, people dining here report being disappointed.
Honorable Mention Fuji Ya, Nami, Origami, Sushi Tango.

Surabhi
9818 Aldrich Ave., Bloomington, 952-746-3663
Surabhi has linoleum-and-Formica décor, a monstrous menu, and service that makes Manuel from Fawlty Towers look professional, but still serves some of the best Indian food in the region. Hit Surabhi at dinner and pig out on the abundant and varied Indian regional dishes and multitude of vegetarian offerings. Don’t miss the dirt-cheap multicourse thali dinner.
Best Bets Eggplant curry, aloo gobi (spiced potatoes and cauliflower), kulcha (tandoor-fired onion bread), lamb vindaloo, chicken korma,
chicken tikka masala, Chicken 65, tandoor mixed grill.
Prime Time Crowds pack into this midsized former pancake house for the buffet lunch.
Pssst The Chinese-Indian offerings are in the tradition of the melting pot that is Northeast Indian cuisine.
But Skip the mediocre lunch buffet.
Honorable Mention Tandoor, Taste of India, Udupi Café.