Scenes

For some of us, it’s not “all about the food.” For me, atmosphere is an essential part of the restaurant experience. No décor, bad décor, or a ghostly vibe markedly lowers the quality of my evening out. Call it eater-tainment, call it what you will. I’m in search of the complete package. Our label “Scenes” is slightly misleading, because this category excludes restaurants with a great vibe but indifferent food. The restaurants below are those where the bread is more than good enough and the circuses are undeniably alluring.  —A. P.

Al’s Breakfast
413 14th Ave. SE, Mpls., 612-331-9991
This sliver of a fourteen-seat diner is known across America as one of the most atmospheric breakfast spots in the Midwest. It’s not for the claustrophobic; the grill men are masters of the egg trade; and the crowd is in the mood for fun, not hung over and glowering.
Best Bets Bacon waffles, corn pancakes.
Prime Time Weekday lunchtimes can be quiet, but all the goofiness comes out on weekends. A nice compromise is weekday breakfast, when the crowd doesn’t linger.
Pssst Don’t answer the pay phone outside if it rings.
But It’s as much about the room as the food.

BaBaLú
800 Washington Ave. N., Mpls., 612-746-3158
BaBaLú sports a great bar scene with innovative drinks, a fun atmosphere with live music, and pan-Latin/ Caribbean fare that ranges from authentic and spicy to Midwestern mild. BaBaLú is not just dinner, it’s a night out.
Best Bets Puerco la adobe (herb-roasted pork with rice and beans), Yucatan–style sea bass, orange-and-coconut flan.
Prime Time Wednesday and Thursdays are buzzy, but without the crowds.
Pssst The rum selection is the best in the Twin Cities.
But The music is loud—not a place for a quiet dinner.

Chino Latino
2916 Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-824-7878
Chino is a nonstop party, in what may be the most dramatic space in the Twin Cities, from the wall of red votives to the soaring atrium to the once-edgy communal toilet anteroom. Chino competently interprets foods from Asia and Latin America. It’s not fusion, so there is no mingling of plantain with lemongrass, but it’s not for authenticity inspectors either.
Best Bets Elote (grilled Mexican corn), the satay bar, roasted pig.
Prime Time Weekends, if you’re there for the party.
Pssst The late-night borracho (drunken) breakfast has some really tasty dishes (French toast, chilaquiles).
But This may be the loudest restaurant in the Twin Cities.

Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant
1010 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-332-1010
One of the Twin Cities’ legendary scenes recently relocated to downtown Minneapolis. It’s warm and welcoming, the jazz program is superb, and chef Jack Reibel has beautifully adapted founding chef Ken Goff’s vision. The Dakota is a night out like no other in the Midwest.
Best Bets Smoked-fish plate, cobb burger (lunch), grilled prime rib of pork.
Prime Time When the right artist is playing.
Pssst The lunch menu is creative and delightful.
But The service still isn’t what it should be.

Harbor View Café
1st and Main Sts., Pepin, Wisconsin, 715-442-3893
This legendary Lake Pepin–area eatery has new owners, but nothing else has changed. From the incredible setting overlooking the harbor and BNSF tracks to the pressed tin ceiling to the familial staff to the incredible, eclectic signature food, there’s nowhere like the Harbor View.
Best Bets Halibut in black-butter–caper sauce; sautéed chicken breasts with garlic and chipotle; Georgia walnut pie.
Prime Time Each season has its charm, from a quiet November weeknight to a busy summer Sunday when everyone mills around on the sidewalk sipping wine. Closed in winter, it reopens March 17.
Pssst You want to sit in the main room.
But Show up Saturday at 7 p.m., and you may wait until Sunday to eat.

The Lexington
1096 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-222-5878
The power scene in St. Paul can be found weekday nights in the bar. The pols, the lawyers, the movers, the shakers. It’s suave, it’s genteel. The dining room’s vibe is ancient and untouched—not cool, but historic.
Best Bets Grilled sirloin; steak sandwich; walleye; turkey dinner; pot roast.
Prime Time Midweek evenings in the bar are when the regulars regulate.
Pssst Rick Webb (Zelo) once owned this place.
But Any dish that sounds creative is probably a bummer. No windows.

Manny’s Steak House
Hyatt Regency Hotel, 1300 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-339-9900
The clubby scene in the wonderful bar dining room is now embraceable since the stogies have been snuffed out. Whereas the main dining room is a beige cavern for carnivores, the bar and its handful of tables is full of woody character, from the checkered tablecloths to the photos of legendary customers.
Best Bets Porterhouse; bone-in rib eye; hash browns; creamed spinach.
Prime Time Always.
Pssst Get to know Randy, the general manager. He’ll take good care of you.
But People will be milling about your table as you eat.

Red’s Savoy Inn
421 E. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-227-1437
A pizzeria that feels like a slice of 1960s Las Vegas, Red’s Savoy Inn specializes in that cheesy, saucy Minnesota pizza that would make an Italian shudder. But it’s fun, it’s a scene, and the people-watching is without peer.
Best Bets Black olive/mushroom pizza, rigatoni with red sauce.
Prime Time Weekend evenings.
Pssst Sauerkraut pizza has a devoted following among the cognoscenti.
But This is a working-class joint. Don’t expect frills.

Redstone American Grill
8000 Eden Rd., Eden Prairie, 952-903-9500; 12501 Ridgedale Dr., Mtka., 952-591-0000
If you are over forty and looking for love, odds are you’ve stumbled in here. Redstone’s bar scene is raucous and legendary and late nights can get really loud, especially in Eden Prairie, but what insiders understand is that the food here is a real, if not hormonal, draw.
Best Bets Buffalo shrimp; flatbread pizzas; barbecue back ribs; burgers.
Prime Time Most evenings are manic; lunch hour offers a less desperate vibe.
Pssst The side dishes—fries, baked beans, cole slaw—are superb.
But Don’t try to get seated without a complete party. You will be sent packing.

Solera
900 Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-338-0062
Many scenes in one—a high-end, authentic tapas restaurant, a jumping tapas bar, a rooftop singles hot spot—and the food’s incredible. If you’re young and have some dough and taste, you party at Solera.
Best Bets Croquetas, cured-meat plates, churros.
Prime Time Summer evenings on the rooftop.
Pssst The $30 tasting menu is the best deal in town for big groups.
But With its proprietors focused on La Belle Vie, we hope Solera doesn’t lose its edge.

Honorable Mention St. Paul Grill, W.A. Frost & Company.