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Food + Dining
Features

Meat Grades—Do They Matter?

August 2007

By Andrew Zimmern

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According to the USDA, Prime beef contains more fat and marbling, resulting in tender and flavorful meat. It has the best flavor because it is the youngest (less collagen means a tender steak) and contains the smallest (not fewest) pockets of intramuscular tenderizing fat.

Most of the graded beef sold in supermarkets is USDA Choice or Select. (The protein, vitamin, and mineral content of corn-fed beef is similar, regardless of the grade.) While in the past, only 2 percent of beef graded-out as Prime, that has dropped to less than 1 percent of the total beef supply. The top tier of Choice has also become harder and harder to find as many luxury steak houses have switched from Prime to high-end Choice. 

These days, many restaurants say they are serving Prime beef, but might not be. If your steak is devoid of deep and intense beefy flavor, is chewy (assuming you don’t order medium-well or well-done), or if no grade is given, it’s probably Choice.

The USDA certification system allows breeders to change the subject. It allows for designations of breeds and/or variety, the most familiar being Angus breeds, which are renowned for marbling. This silly program has resulted in brands being cited at the expense of grade by the savvy marketers of Certified Black Angus, Certified Angus Beef, and Sterling Silver beef. Don’t kid yourself: Brand is secondary to grade.

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