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Does Aging Matter?

August 2007

By Andrew Zimmern

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Dry-aged beef is from beef sides that have been hung to dry for several weeks in temperature- and humidity-controlled environments. When the moisture exits the muscle, a greater concentration of beef flavor results and the beef’s natural enzymes are believed to break down connective tissues in the muscle, which makes it more melting and tender.

Dry-aging also promotes mold and bacteria growth, which has to be cut away before butchering, resulting in even more weight loss. Evaporated weight means a loss of dollars, since beef is sold by weight, and dry-aged beef loses as much as a third of its weight. So dry-aged beef is spendy, since you’re paying for that water that went into the air.

Still, the economics of dry-aging, especially Prime beef, are less than compelling, and it’s thus growing increasingly rare. (Only the highest grades of meat are dry-aged, since there is almost no point in aging meat in this way unless it contains evenly distributed and well-marbled fat.)

Wet-aged beef is “aged” in a vacuum-sealed bag. In this method of aging, there is almost no loss of weight and little laborious handling. More than 90 percent of all retail Prime and Choice beef is wet-aged, but I’m not convinced wet-aging enhances flavor, though it does keep costs down and prolong shelf life.

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