Sea Change

The successor to Cue at the Guthrie has been nicely softened with sea green accents and chalkboards. It feels different than the stuffy Cue, until you read the menu, which is an amalgam of “sustainably” sourced (meaning ethically harvested, since menu items are freighted by air from all over the continent, a practice that is hardly sustainable) seafood that sounds more avant garde than it is. That’s because the menu is presented, in the current fashion, without descriptions of how dishes are prepared (a typical menu item would look like this: Salmon/Harissa/White Beans/Chorizo). With Tim McKee supervising and Erik Anderson at the stoves, it’s safe to expect great things, but this remains a restaurant with a powerfully “chefy” vibe and, at least in the early going, a stiff formality that makes it feel less like a place to drop in after work for a simple piece of grilled fish, and more like a special occasion restaurant. —Adam Platt

Guthrie Theater, 818 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-225-6499, seachangempls.com