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Food + Dining
Frugal Gourmet

Favor Cafe

Frugal Gourmet Favor Cafe
Photo by James Erickson

February 2009

By Steven Brown

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Favor Cafe is the antithesis of the space’s former tenant, Restaurant Miami. What was once a homage to Scarface and the 1980s is now an homage to none other than Jesus, jazz, and Southern comfort food. The vibe is homey, and the service is over-the-top friendly (we got hugs when we left). That hospitality reaches deep into the roots of soul food—Africa, the Caribbean, and Jamaica in particular—all channeled via Chicago, where the owners lived before transplanting to Minnesota. Take the gumbo ($5 cup/$7 bowl), a satisfying mélange of sausage, chicken, and shrimp long simmered with gumbo filé, bay, and okra. It doesn’t stop there. The more- than-serviceable entrées ($12–$22) come with up to three south-of-the- Mason–Dixon sides, such as candied yams, collard greens, and black-eyed peas ($5 ordered separately). Perhaps the mantra should be, “Come for the hugs; come back for the soul [food].” In a cold, lonely Minnesota winter, both are equally necessary. —Steven Brown

913 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-821-0553

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