This café and pub in Minneapolis’s Camden neighborhood offers reasonably priced, casual meals and fine drink.
October 2009
By Steven Brown
Victory 44, a new-ish café and pub in Minneapolis’s Camden neighborhood, aims to be the meeting place of choice for casual meals, fine drink, and good memories. Add reasonably priced, tasty food to the mix and you are well on your way to understanding the core values of owners Erick Harcey and Ben Hiza, who met while the former was executive chef and the latter general manager of Nicollet Island Inn. Things are decidedly less buttoned-down at Victory. The small but well- chosen menu’s highlights include a savory Reuben ($8.95) with thick chunks of hearty house-cured brisket, cabbage, Gruyére, and a zingy Thousand Island dressing; a bacon cheddar burger ($8.95) paired nicely with icebox pickles (Harcey’s grandmother’s recipe); and fish and chips ($14.95) so crispy you can hear them crunching from the kitchen. To quote Hiza chatting up a nearby table, “So far, so good, right?” Right. 2203 44th Ave. N., Mpls., 612-588-2228