Pho Ca Dao

Although most of us convince ourselves in February that by April the weather will be better, there are drizzly, cold patches in April when we all become fairly certain that winter will never release its hold. These are the days when it’s time to don your slicker, crank up your heated seats, and head to Pho Ca Dao Vietnamese Restaurant. Sixteen of the menu’s seventeen dishes are variations of beef pho in a savory broth that tastes like liquid sunshine. (One lone bowl of chicken pho with rice noodles sits at the bottom of the menu.) Diners choose cuts of beef to add, including round steak, brisket, flank steak, tripe, or meatballs. As is customary, each bowl comes with a platter of bean sprouts, basil leaves, jalapeños, and wedges of lime. There are three sizes to choose from—the largest more of a vat than a bowl—and not one tops $7. There’s no beer or wine, but chase it all down with tart salty lemonade—a welcoming sign that summer’s just around the corner.

439 University Ave., St. Paul, 651-222-4615