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Food + Dining
Frugal Gourmet

La Sirena Gorda

La Sirena Gorda
Photo by Craig Bares

January 2007

By Steven Brown

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Now that winter is upon us, there is no reason to avoid the balmy confines of the Midtown Global Market. A veritable menagerie of international foods awaits, and most of the countries represented are known for weather milder than Minnesota’s. My favorite stop is La Sirena Gorda, where owner Alfonso Menéndez (also an owner of Babalú) runs a seafood-only marisquería that serves summer on a plate via items such as marlin tacos with pineapple and annatto (four for $6.95); delicious ceviche with shrimp, peppers, and cilantro in a heady citrus and habañero marinade ($6.95); or my personal favorite, mariscocillas—deep-fried tortillas stuffed with seafood, corn, epazote, and chipotle aïoli, served on a bed of crispy shredded lettuce—golden-hued rays of sunshine that are a bargain at $5.95. Add a big glass of refreshing hibiscus iced tea and you will have a minivacation for less than $10.

Midtown Global Market, 920 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-870-0037




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