The Strip Club

The Scene
The pruriently named Strip Club is housed in a two-story brick building that dates back to 1885 and has been the home of a meat market, a grocery store, and a succession of neighborhood cafés. Perched on a hillside in Dayton’s Bluff that affords a sweeping panorama of downtown St. Paul (a view that’s best enjoyed from the compact, second-floor balcony), this is an utterly charming place, warm and alive with buzz. An antique black railing curls up a winding staircase and frames the second-floor loft. The décor also includes a collection of strategically placed mirrors, whitewashed walls, flickering candles, glowing faux fireplaces, lots of dark polished wood, and a small, comfortable bar. The arrangement of black Formica-topped tables is close-quartered, but the eclectic patrons hailing from both near and far are so engaged and animated that no one seems to pay much mind.

Our Take
No hemming and hawing about this place, I love it. Town Talk Diner partners Tim Niver and Aaron Johnson and new partner, ex–Muffuletta chef J. D. Fratzke have crafted a wonderful combination of food and ambiance. What most appeals is the baker’s dozen small plates. They ranged from a serving of delicious deviled eggs seasoned with chili oil and curry to selections of flavorful grilled skewered meats to walleye fritters served with a tarragon aioli to a near-perfect torchon of Au Bon Canard foie gras plated with oranges, French olives, and braised fennel. As for the entrées, they were diverse and notably well priced. Two signature items are the eponymous grilled strip steak and a Scottish salmon. Both include a choice of sauce from a list of seven options. These were backed up by a melt-in-your-mouth pork shank for two, a spicy barbecue pork-shoulder sandwich, and two fresh seafood dishes—an excellent pan-seared catfish and an equally top-notch grilled tuna sided with kale, mushrooms, and red wine–barley risotto. Our only real criticisms were a heavy hand with salt and a strong odor from a mussels starter. I was recognized the minute I set foot in the door, so the service was highly attentive, but nothing I observed around me suggested that the staff is anything but first-rate.

By Design
I might have missed it if it hadn’t been pointed out, but the menu is more purposeful than most. Many of the selections pay homage to St. Paul and those who settled here. One such paean to the Irish and English is a take on traditional beans and toast. Another, this one to Scandinavians and Swedish–raised chef Marcus Samuelsson (who partnered with Niver at Aquavit), is the tasty Swede Hollow Meatballs served with mashed potatoes, lingonberry sauce, and a rich black truffle gravy. There are several others, but I don’t want to spoil the fun of figuring them out.