Sanctuary

Address
903 Washington Ave. S., Mpls., 612-339-5058

The Scene
In a building dating back to the city’s inception, Sanctuary's stone walls, rough beams, and rescued barn floors echo ancient ruins. The host stand is a pulpit, and high-backed bishop’s chairs furbish nooks near the bar. A freestanding fireplace glows seductively near the door, adding to the blend of whimsy and irreverence. Tables are filled with Guthrie patrons and those stopping in after work. The space is guarded by gargoyles: “Babble” perches atop the host pulpit, “Socrates” sits near the bar, and “Whisper” at the back door will mind your secrets. Others seem poised to chase away doubts about ordering more wine or trying dessert. All are endearingly ugly, but the servers are the best-looking in town.

Our Take
Sanctuary’s chef, Patrick Atanalian (the last chef at Loring Café), spins his menu with ethnic verve. Latin and Asian flavors accent traditional French fare in homage to culinary icon Pierre Gagnaire, father of fusion. Organized by precious headers “Entice,” “Refresh,” “Nourish,” and “Indulge,” the food itself is not nearly as incongruous as the labels. Sea scallops in blue cheese vinaigrette seemed an odd duo. But the flavors were muted, adding just the right note of salt and musk to the  perfectly cooked pearly mollusks served on a crisp slaw. Straightforward items such as sweet sugar cane shrimp snugged in a crunchy potato wrap with a kicky teriyaki wasabi were no less innovative and lively. Lamb shank, braised in coconut milk, was silky and cleaner tasting than if cooked in classic wine and stock, and its side of ancho corn bread added heft and heat. Some flavors were lost on me, such as the lobster reduction on a sirloin, but the steak was juicy, and the snappy jalapeño-onion marmalade and hickory potato cake made a great match. It’s with a firm hand and traditional sensibilities that this chef keeps fierce flavors in check. Nothing called undue attention to itself; the dishes were nuanced and balanced. This same playful restraint governs desserts, though some push right up to the edge. Take the warm pumpkin bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream and smoked-jalapeño maple sauce. This lively ambrosia worked. The “trio of decadence”—bittersweet mousse, dark chocolate ice cream, and dense truffle—provided plenty of chocolate and was plenty safe.

Naughty or Nice?
Five-hundred-and-forty bottles of wine—Sanctuary’s entire selection—are displayed as though driven neck-first into the wall, thanks to a custom-made rack inspired by an episode of Law and Order. The list, accessible and reasonably priced, suits the freewheeling, eclectic menu. “With these flavors, you have more latitude,” says Michael Kutscheid. “No need to stay within rigid rules; a light red works well with our salmon.” Those of us old enough to remember Nicollet Mall’s Kapoochi (a winsome Euro–Asian fusion venture done in by a thieving bookkeeper) recall Kutscheid, who donned Guthrie costumes to greet guests. These days he is Sanctuary’s co-owner and has fashioned a place as alluring as Kapoochi, if more subdued.