Porter & Frye

Address
1115 2nd Ave. S., Mpls., 612 -353-3500

The Scene
Porter & Frye, the swank new place in the Ivy Tower, has stumbled in early reviews and gossipy blogs, but its allure is very much intact. All brown and cream, with bold red appointments and fabric-swathed lights, the downstairs dining room is Madison Avenue chic, a place to see and be seen by the understated urbane who’ve settled in for long, luxurious meals. Upstairs, the sleek jewel-toned backlit bar draws a faster, sharper crowd to posh elixirs and shared appetizers. The adjoining casual dining area is a stark, less gracious space; no matter, the greetings from hosts, bartenders, and servers are warm yet appropriately formal and establish a welcoming, polished vibe.

Our Take
Self-described “Midwest & modern,” the menu spins the familiar, seasonal, and exotic with artistry and sumptuous surprise. Sea scallops, drizzled with “butterscotch” (caramelized browned butter), were nutty, sweet, and sublime. The soups are served ingredients first: The celery bisque’s popped rice, crisp pork belly chunks, and celery huddled in the center of a deep bowl; then our server poured in the bisque from a small white pitcher, tableside. We all enjoyed the playful flourish (also employed at Chambers Kitchen). The hot potato salad was tasty pub fare, gentrified, with tangy rough mustard vinaigrette, potato-crusted soft egg, and spicy frisée. A starter of “tuna sliders,” curried tuna salad on potato bread, seemed out of sync.

Entrées ran from hefty to spa-size. Beef tenderloin was sidled to a fried onion-ring bowl heaped with potato purée. A delicate, seared arctic char nested on spicy braised greens and fragrant chickpea purée spiked with cumin, cardamom, and coffee. The vegetarian medley of winter squash, slivered walnuts, and broccoli raab tumbled over maple tofu cream. (Never has tofu tasted so good; this sauce deserves another name.) Parmesan-crusted walleye on toothsome lobster risotto with a hint of anise and a dash of shaved tart green apple was light, bright, and balanced.

Desserts follow this same smart suit. Über-smooth coconut panna cotta was rich and luscious, and the perky, inside-out cheesecake (light crust outside, thyme-scented chèvre within) made a fine savory-sweet. But even our waiter coyly agreed that the caramelized apple with cheddar cheese ice cream shoves a beloved classic pair beyond reach. Still, I give credit to pastry chef Juliette Lelchuk for her daring try.

Haute Homeboy
Chef Steven Brown has cooked his way around the city’s food chain and it’s ironic that his kitchen is in the heart of the iconic Ivy Tower (circa 1930), itself a survivor of fires and threatened demolition. Brown’s Midwestern vision embraces what he calls the “happy accident,” a confluence of sound technique, great ingredients, and cooks who love collaborating, pushing flavors, and getting it right. This serendipity informs and energizes the servers, versed in Brown’s mission and excited about this food. This haute boy has found his home.