Bloomington ChopHouse

Address
Hilton Bloomington, 3900 American Blvd. W., Bloomington, 952-830-5200

The Scene
Tucked in a faceless Hilton off desolate I–494, Bloomington ChopHouse is easy to miss, but certainly worth a look, as it enters with quiet grace the expanding herd of Twin Cities steak houses. It’s sleeker than most, the ubiquitous red booths and broad tables softened with pretty low-slung lamps and spare appointments. The formality is more W Hotel than men’s club. Come Friday evening, you’re likely to see a table of businesswomen in the bar, nibbling snacks, rehashing the week; a solo traveler dining alone; two guys in suits closing a “serious” deal.

Our Take
Don’t let the name mislead you. You’ll find but two chops (pork and lamb) on this blunt menu: The slim block letters list tenderloin and grass-fed prime rib in incremental portions, bone-in strip and rib eye at just over a pound, and porterhouse weighing in at two. Salt-kissed and nicely charred, these are flavorful Premium cuts, flame-licked and tender as any hunks of beef can be. They’re offered with a bevy of sauces, the truffle butter being the best of the lot. Beef brisket (pot roast-style) you could cut with a fork was succulent and not at all stringy, its pan juice slightly sweet. Beyond the bovine, a sautéed organic salmon in a rough mustard glaze was firm and moist; free-range roasted half-chicken came crisp and juicy in a zesty rub; and the Berkshire pork chop, double thick at a hefty twenty-two ounces, hardly needed a knife.

Simplest appetizers—shrimp cocktail and ahi tuna—shine. The crab cake, though chocked with sweet lump crab, was dampened with filler; its chipotle remoulade packed a nice kick. Calamari was light and crisp, yet unremarkable. A velvety, brandy-spiked, fennel-and-tarragon-scented lobster bisque might make a good meal. Choosing sides, spinach in chive butter and the grilled asparagus were fresh and bright; a cheddar-laden twice-baked potato and garlic-mashed Yukon Golds tasted ho hum at best. Big sweets are meant to share: Tall cheesecake capped with milk chocolate sour cream was tangy and creamy in a graham cracker crust—one or two bites will do. Service was as polished as the heavy flatware; the place exudes a confidence born of training and experience.

The Big Guys
Bloomington ChopHouse is the newest of several similar restaurants around the Midwest run by Marcus Hotels & Resorts, operators of the venerable Pfister Hotel in Milwaukee. “Though many of the items on the ChopHouse menus are identical, the chefs feature house specials and make an effort to use local sources,” says chef Chris Hammer—Berkshire pork, Thousand Hills beef, and Hill and Vale lamb, to name a few. (“They’re remarkable,” he notes.) Such streamlining keeps costs in check and offers familiar comforts to frequent hotel guests. Though not cheap, prices won’t blow the expense account.