Flame

Address

Rosedale Center Plaza, Roseville, 651-315-5005

The Scene

On the backside of Rosedale, tucked in between the chains, Flame is easy to miss; look for a torch affixed to its sign. The entrance’s enormous flaming disk hanging from the ceiling declares Flame’s fiery rotisserie-grill theme. It’s a sprawling space with high black ceilings and orange-hued booths. Fabric-sheathed lanterns diffuse light and soften the sound. A few whimsical appointments defy mall restaurant style: A brick wall is stacked to the ceiling with split wood; bathroom sinks (long, stainless steel troughs) are loaded with Mexican river stone as a cooling counterpoint. The large bar’s three HDTVs become mesmerizing. Flame’s demographics shift throughout the evening: early on, families with young kids coloring menus, then after-work singles hanging at the bar while movie-going couples catch a bite before and after the show.

Our Take

Flame’s claim is “cooking with fire.” Whole chickens and hunks of meat are blasted at dangerous temperatures to singe the exterior and seal in juices. Hickory adds an edge of smoke. Best on the meat-heavy menu are kebabs and rotisserie fare. Try the steak skewer, crusty chunks of tender, juicy meat, roasted red peppers, tomatoes, mushrooms, and zucchini, over fluffy jasmine rice (though I wished for some of the Persian essence of Flame’s Atlas Grill sibling). Rotisserie half-chicken was firm, moist and came with a choice of Cajun or barbecue spice. The skillet-cooked cider-marinated pork tenderloin was nicely underdone and paired with cumin-scented applesauce, while slowly braised lamb shank was fragrant and succulent with a marjoram aioli. Freshly mashed red potatoes were the best of the sides, especially with a New York strip or peppered top sirloin. I’m not sure messing with ceviche makes sense. Scallops came dry and chewy and the salsa overwhelmed the sweet-natured seafood. Assorted salads, such as the chicken with roasted corn and craisins, seemed to be afterthoughts. Skip the soggy onion rings and the ho-hum chicken wings and wait for dessert. Share the gooey, warm brownie in a puddle of soft vanilla ice cream or silky crème brûlée under a crackly, burnt sugar crust. Forget the s’mores, unless you have a kid to keep busy toasting marshmallows over a candle while you order a wide-mouth martini.

By Land and By Sea

Roseville’s Flame was designed to beget other locations. Hemisphere Restaurant Partners (Atlas, Mission American Kitchen, Via) and executive chef James Foley have fashioned the midpriced, family-friendly, straightforward concept for suburban locations. “People come and sit at the stools overlooking the open kitchen to watch our chefs at the fires,” notes Flame general manager Gerry Thom. (None of this action is visible from any of the tables or booths, however.) The custom grills and rotisserie are among the country’s hottest, they insist. Dishes at Flame’s siblings—Atlas Grill’s kebabs, Mission’s pot roast—have inspired several here. Foley brings his knowledge of Mexican technique and flavors with skillet items such as fajitas. They hope it is no flash in the pan.