Barrio Tequila Bar

Address

925 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-333-9953

The Scene

The centerpiece of the former Dunn Bros space is a large, wooden, mirror-backed bar with glass shelves reaching to the ceiling that showcases a collection of some 110 tequilas. The section just inside the entrance is tightly packed with wooden bar tables and stools, and it’s difficult to talk over the din. Things are a bit less frenetic toward the back and even less so upstairs, where guests are seated at solid, comfortable tables. It’s a small space and will always feel intimate, but the Shea design firm has created a room that’s fun, sassy, and irreverent. Whether it’s the spaghetti Westerns playing on an overhead screen, the wax-draped candelabra where guests can light a votive to their Patrón saint, or the mechanized Day of the Dead marionettes that dance away on small platforms alongside the bar, there are visuals aplenty. And the well-dressed, animated, and largely young professional crowd clearly revels in it.

Our Take

Photo by Craig Bares

Barrio is the latest concept from the increasingly prolific team of Tim McKee and Josh Thoma. The kitchen is in the hands of Bill Fairbanks, a Latin street-food junkie who has spent the last six years working for McKee at La Belle Vie. Although the fare is cast to play second fiddle to the tequila and potent libations created by standout mixologist Johnny Michaels, the breadth of flavors, fresh-tasting ingredients, colorful presentations, and affordability rate superlatives in their own right. The single-page dinner menu is divided into three sections. The first is a series of small plates priced at $7.50 that runs the gamut from fresh guacamole served in a traditional stone molcajete to a pair of crisp empanadas filled with shredded crab and plated with a bit of avocado and an excellent salsa verde. The second section lists an assortment of tacos and enchiladas priced around $4. If I had to recommend just one, it would be the fried mahi-mahi taco. The fish was perfectly cooked, and I loved the contrasting textures and dimensions created by the accompanying slaw and citrus-cucumber pico de gallo. Lastly, there is a list of five main courses, all under $22. The nod here goes to the Oaxaca–style ribs, a generous serving of fall-off-the-bone baby backs sauced with a suave, complex gravy, delivering tastes of cinnamon, chocolate, tamarind, and ancho chili. The staff possesses confidence and knows the food.

Tequila’s Sunrise

Tequila has come a long way, and if you haven’t kept up, you’ll find the choices at Barrio daunting. The stuff is distilled from the blue agave plant, and the real deal is labeled 100% Agave and barrel-aged in oak casks. The major distinguishing quality is length of aging—and the categories range from “blanco” (not aged) to “ultra añejo” (aged for up to five years). Although quality tequila should never be consumed with salt or lime, the experience can be enhanced with a compadre—a small shot of juice or soda to wash it down. There are several great tequilas on the menu, and it’s an experience you shouldn’t miss.

Fine Print Getting There, Getting In: There are ramps nearby and meters on 9th and 10th streets. Reservations are strongly recommended. Hours: Lunch M–F 11 a.m.–2 p.m., dinner M–Sa 5–10 p.m. and Su 5–9 p.m., late-night menu until 1 a.m. nightly. Noise Level: High Kids: No special menu; adult ambience at night. Cards: AmEx, Diner’s, MC, Visa. Entrée Prices: Small plates $7.50, entrées $16–$22. Extras: Weekday happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m.. Fridays, Saturdays, and Mondays a DJ is in the house. Handicap Accessible.