Citizen Café

Address

2403 E. 38th St., Mpls., 612-729-1122

The Scene

Don’t let the moniker throw you. Citizen is not a socialist party coffee house or a collective kitchen, circa 1960. This nondescript square building in a modest urban neighborhood is the new home of Michael MacKay (a former Sample Room chef), and well worth a search (it’s poorly signed and easy to miss). Step inside to a welcoming, warmly lit, low-key place, where brass lanterns, a craftsman-style interior, and amber walls appointed with WWII–era posters and vintage prints create a homey, gentle vibe. On any given evening, the crowd is a mix from the diverse ’hood, with young singles, families with kids, older couples, and groups of ladies out on a lark.

Our Take

The plates are big, the prices small. On several levels, Citizen is a real deal. Long on meat, the menu showcases Chef MacKay’s talent with big cuts and bold flavors. The pâtés, sausages, and cured- and ground-meat offerings are all done in-house. Take the hefty three-day pork roast. It’s dry-rubbed and braised until it falls off the bone. The same pork is pulled and tossed with a smoky, spicy-sweet barbecue sauce and lots of roasted red pepper for a whopping sandwich. MacKay grills his half chicken under a brick and finishes it in the oven so it will be moist and crisp. A tempting Citizen Joe sandwich of pork and beef with caramelized onion and roasted peppers is neatly wrapped in freshly baked dough. Bratwurst was juicy and brightly seasoned, plated with apple mustard. There’s nothing tricky about any of these plates, but MacKay sparks even the simplest dishes with bold flavor. A salad of root vegetables, roasted and caramel-sweet, got a salty kick from Serrano bacon in the dressing. For sides, try the fresh, earthy, local Yukon gold–garlic mashers (they could make a meal). A few dishes could have used some refinement. The bread basket of overseasoned herb rolls and a stale baguette made a poor first impression. Desserts seemed uninspired, at best. Service was accommodating and friendly, the young staff enthusiastic about the food (especially MacKay’s commitment to local ingredients and scratch cooking). The simple and straightforward menu is democratic in scope and price. You won’t leave here hungry. You won’t leave broke.

The Good Citizen

At Citizen, MacKay and his wife, Seaen MacKay, who manages the front of the house and wine list, fulfill their vision for a neighborhood café. While removing old carpeting during the renovation, MacKay discovered a chef logo inlaid in the linoleum floor, circa 1941. It harkened back to the era of FDR and WWII, conjuring up a simpler time when communities were strong and people planted victory gardens. “We want this to be a place people can afford to come to regularly,” the chef says. “We’re working hard to keep prices down, using raw and local ingredients.” The menu will change seasonally, but he hopes some items will become favorites people crave. “I’ve done all that high-end stuff,” MacKay says. “I want to get back to doing things simply. I’m very old school.”