Restaurant Max

Address

Hotel Minneapolis, 215 S. 4th St., Mpls., 612-340-0303

The Scene

Photograph by Craig Bares

Chef Matthew Holmes

Hotel Minneapolis’s dining and drinking venue is the cavernous atrium lobby of the former Midland Bank. It retains such touches of grandeur as large white marble columns, a steel bank vault serving as a wine cellar, and a handsomely patterned ceiling. The most striking design feature is a phantasmagoria of contemporary lighting that radiates overhead. The collection of tables, banquettes, and booths is comfortable and well spaced. In contrast to subdued Restaurant Max, lightly populated with a mix of business and casually attired hotel guests, the bar draws a lively crowd of animated young professionals relishing happy hour values. At times, the pulsating music playing for them is intrusive.

Our Take

Restaurant Max’s menu is an exercise in ambition. There aren’t many local spots where the global reach zigzags from crispy duck egg rolls and spunky Thai sweet potato soup to shiitake and crimini mushroom risotto and lobster thermidor. And how about such unconventional concepts as parsnip croquettes, red beet risotto, and bacon foam? In my experience, such breadth tends to be hit and miss, and that summarizes my dinners at Max. Among the successes was a wonderfully succulent and crisp-skinned chicken breast served with shallots, white wine, crème fraîche, and a beer gastrique; flavorful red curry ahi accented with cilantro oil; and skewers of cubed lamb, shrimp, and chorizo presented with a trio of interesting sauces that included a great sriracha aioli. On the other side of the ledger, lemon-ricotta gnocchi were marred by uncharacteristic fried exteriors and unpleasant density; seared sesame seed scallops possessed an off-putting fishy character; and an otherwise delicious bone-in New York strip was partnered with a gloppy gravy that bore scant resemblance to the Bordelaise sauce on the menu. Definitely not to be passed up are the mini desserts priced at $2.50 and served in spoonful-sized glasses. Among the choices are a lovely tiramisu, a scrumptious macadamia nut pie, and a decadent double-chocolate cake. The wait staff is on the youngish side, but well trained and notably personable.

Banking On It

The inevitable question is, “How does Max compare to Bank, the first Twin Cities hotel restaurant housed in converted bank quarters?” Max is less formal, offers a wider array of choices, and has better service out of the gate than was the oft-criticized case at Bank. Although both have proclaimed themselves chef-driven, I predict that Max executive chef Matthew Holmes won’t disappear nearly as quickly as hired-gun Todd Stein at Bank. That’s because Max is run by St. Paul’s Morrissey Hospitality, which has proven its mettle running St. Paul Grill, Pazzaluna, and Tria. It has a track record of getting things right.

Fine Print Getting There, Getting In: There’s parking in several nearby ramps, and valet parking is available off of 4th Street. If you purchase a dinner entrée, valet is $5. Reservations suggested. Hours: Lunch M–F 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Dinner Su–Th 5–10 p.m., F–Sa 5–11 p.m. Noise Level: Low to moderate. Kids: No kids’ menu; relatively adult fare. Cards: AmEx, Diner’s, Discover, MC, Visa. Entrée Prices: $18–$45. Extras: During daily happy hours (4–6 and 9–11 p.m.), the bar offers specials on drinks and half-price flatbreads. Handicapped Accessible