Birch's

Address

1935 Wayzata Blvd. W., Long Lake, 952-473-7373

The Scene

On the corner of Long Lake, where Highway 12 winds west into the country, Birch’s is easy to miss. The strip mall building’s frayed exterior, once home to Ravello, belies its spiffed-up ski-lodge gleam and its brushed aluminum bar with blond fieldstone accents and black-and-white photos of birch trees hung on denim blue walls that complement the guests’ designer jeans. Come Saturday, this tiny fifty-seat place is packed, and no wonder: Quality dining options are thin in these parts. Flanked by the lake and farmland-turned-developer’s dream, Birch’s is the best place to meet.

Our Take

Meandering through American comfort foods, Birch’s long menu offers a few interesting twists. Take the smoked salmon, rubbed with pastrami spices of paprika, clove, and garlic. For bar snacks, try the sweet-smoky BBQ ribs or the stack of crisp zucchini fries. If you fear the word fried, instead of the renowned Chicken-in-the-Rough opt for a simple roast chicken. Endearingly stodgy, this nicely charred bird is perched on silky mashed potatoes drenched in a pan sauce of lemon and thyme. Speaking of simple, walleye in a crisp coating of crackers is fresh and flaky, as is roast salmon in a brown sugar–soy glaze. If this place suffers, it’s from ill-conceived dishes and bouts of excess. What’s the deal with truffle oil? Why flirt with this loamy, pungent essence on a dish of plump fresh shrimp? Veal skirt steak, an odd choice, was flavorless. A dry double-bone pork chop sat heavily on butter mashed potatoes. Don’t mess with the flatbreads, they groan under too much topping. Trust the specials instead. One rainy night, a Fat Tire beer–laced mac ’n’ cheese, with chunks of crisp Nueske’s bacon, brought inspired consolation. Desserts are dependable: crème brûlée, a brownielike flourless torte, and sturdy bread pudding in a warm custard sauce. Sporting a nicely edited wine list, Birch’s pours Napa Valley Luna vineyard’s Freakout and a Spanish Alaia, each a reasonable $7 for a generous glass. Birch’s plates, though some are unrefined, are indeed generous; the staff is congenial and attentive. Drawing together folks from McMansions, split-levels, lake cottages, and town homes, Birch’s is an upbeat and independent local in this land of chains.

Roadhouse Spirit

Photo by Craig Bares

Owner Burton Joseph

If you’re old enough to remember Hamm’s beer, you might recall Sunday chicken dinner at the Buckhorn Roadhouse, once located across the street. Its legacy lives on in Birch’s fried chicken, and owner Burton Joseph envisions establishing similar traditional draws. A catering veteran, Joseph is promoting Sunday brunch plus special dinners, accompanied by wine and beer tastings. Next up, a multicourse game dinner featuring elk and wild boar. Keeping the menu updated and fresh without losing the regulars who spill in with kids after soccer for a burger is an ongoing challenge. When the barkeep chats up those waiting for a table and the wait staff call diners by name, Birch’s channels that beloved Buckhorn spirit.

Fine Print Getting There, Getting In: In downtown Long Lake, Birch’s offers ample parking in a free lot. Reservations are a good idea on weekends, fifty seats fill up quickly. Hours: Tu–Sa 4–11 p.m., Su 10 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–9 p.m. Noise Level: Moderate. Kids: No kids’ menu, but the fare is accessible with miniburgers, flatbread pizza, roast chicken, and simple mac ’n’ cheese. Cards: AmEx, Discover, MC, Visa. Entrée Prices: $12–$32. Extras: There’s patio service with a wood-burning fireplace for the brave in cold weather. Handicapped Accessible