Rinata

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The Scene

Rinata means “reborn” in Italian, and it’s good to see new life in Giorgio’s old space. Spiffed up with fresh paint, a burnished copper bar, and votive-lit tables, it’s brisk and happy, even on a wintry Tuesday night. The frost-coated door opens with a whiff of garlic as you head in out of the cold. Perhaps it’s the expansive welcome—or the sense of folks huddling together as you squeeze through the tightly packed space to your seat—but Rinata’s warm presence is reassuring. Those of us who worry over the fate of restaurants these days can take heart in small neighborhood joints like this.

Our Take

Rinata’s humble dishes with unassuming descriptions are distinguished by chef Jon Hunt’s subtle touch. Crostini are festooned with assertive Brussels sprouts and a bit of salty, crisped pancetta and balanced by creamy white beans. Involtini, sheer strips of eggplant wrapped around creamy chèvre, sit atop a rough, bold tomato sauce. Expect a fine caesar, each leaf lightly coated with garlicky dressing; the few fat crusty croutons pack a nice peppery bite. Pizzas, their light crusts strategically charred, make a fine shared snack. (Artichoke and olive is the best of the lot.)

Go for pastas with long-simmered sughi and slowly roasted meats. Duck ragout, with thigh meat rich as confit, melted into silky ribbons of parpadelle. Pork and chicken sausage on wedge-shaped maltagliati would make Nonna nod in assent. It’s good to see goat on this rustic menu. Layered in sturdy whole-wheat lasagna, its distinctive flavor was complemented by a mild goat cheese béchamel. Fettuccini with house-cured pancetta, peas, and mushrooms was lush yet light. The braised lamb shank, nutmeg-scented, fell from the bone into porcini mushroom risotto. A few dishes suffered, especially those out of season. Why mess with fresh tomatoes on bruschetta and in the panzanella and Caprese salads when you can’t find ripe ones? A heavy hand salted the Tuscan white bean soup. Gnocchi were chewy and dense. On one occasion, the vongole (clams) with fettuccini were perky with garlic and hot pepper, on another, dry and tough. Trust the server’s advice (especially regarding the specials). And when it comes to wine, listen up: The barbera is velvety and unobtrusive and the house bianco is fruity, fresh, and crisp, for $8 or less for a big pour.

Rustic by Design

Rinata’s partners worked together at al Vento, near Lake Nokomis: Jon Hunt was chef-owner, Amor Hantous, a longtime server. But the similarities between the two places end there—space constraints at Rinata, both in the front and back of the house, have sent the proprietors in a decidedly rustic direction modeled on small Italian trattoria. “At Rinata we focus on pasta, risotto, and pizza,” Hantous says. “It allows us to be creative and to focus on the homey farmhouse dishes of Italy’s countryside. We have a tiny kitchen and such limited space; this menu makes sense.”