moto-i

ADDRESS

2940 Lyndale Ave. S., Mpls.,

612-821-6262, moto-i.com

THE SCENE

Moto-i is a Japanese tavern where the primary lure is a selection of unpasteurized rice wines (sake) brewed on the premises in a small, windowed fermentation room crowded with pipes, holding tanks, and other equipment. The rest of moto-i’s spacious interior is sectioned into rooms with handsome, slattedwood booths and bar tables. A smaller spillover section is filled with metal tables, and a high-energy bar just inside the entrance is tricked out with flat-screens and a bumper shuffleboard table. The place is packed most evenings with a lively crowd of young professionals.

OUR TAKE

Will bars serving specialty libations and small plates be the next big thing? Certainly the overnight successes of Barrio and moto-i are going to start entrepreneurs thinking. As far as I’m concerned, I love this fun, casual, lowcost, and creative approach to dining. I can sample a medley of different items, and if a few of them prove to be duds, so what? I’m only out a few bucks. Indeed, my experiences here are hit and miss—the fare’s not quite in the same league with Barrio’s, but I always left more than sated. I would skip the generally bland and watery noodle dishes and instead focus on the menu’s snack and smallplate categories. Among the compelling items were mussels served in a blend of Thai chili, garlic, and mint, fried lotus chips served with a fiery sambal dip, and curried sweet potato croquettes topped with a traditional katsu sauce. As for the small plates, the quartet of grilled skewers—beef, chicken, pork loin, and Chinese eggplant—when properly cooked, were tender and fulfilling. For dessert, try the hot Okinawan doughnuts, a sort of Nipponese churro. My sense is that the place is understaffed—the young serving crew is enthusiastic and knowledgeable, but it’s a taxing challenge to deal with lots of smallplate orders. As a result, there were long lapses between visits to our table, and basics such as providing clean plates and filling water glasses were absent.

Sake To Me

Photo by Craig Bares

If you don’t know the first thing about sake, don’t worry. Owner/brewmaster Blake Richardson, who also owns Herkimer just up the block, has gone to great lengths to help newcomers feel comfortable with this unfamiliar potion. In addition to a lengthy description of the brewing process on the back of the menu, servers are well-schooled in the characteristics of the three varieties of sake being served. And perhaps best of all, for $12 you can order a flight sampling presented on a place mat printed with yet more information.