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Food + Dining
Restaurant Reviews

Bradstreet Craftshouse

bradstreet crafthouse
Photo by Craig Bares

April 2009

By Peter Lilienthal

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Address
Graves 601 Hotel, 601 1st Ave. N., Mpls., 612-312-1821

The Scene

Tucked away on the ground level of the Graves 601 Hotel, this stylish homage to John Scott Bradstreet—an early 20th century Minneapolis designer known for his eponymous Craftshouse atelier—offers four settings: There’s seating at a counter overlooking the open kitchen, behind a velvet curtain in a plush parlor designed for small groups and amorous couples, in a small dining area with tables and banquettes, and at the handsome 10-seat bar—recommended for those who want to watch the well-trained mixologists in action. The design still carries traces of the former Infinity nightclub, with clean lines and textured wall coverings, but there is a new collection of objets d’art. The clientele tends to be a mix of hotel guests and young professionals out for a leisurely evening of food and impeccable cocktails. The space and experience is not well suited to large parties.

Our Take

Bradstreet Craftshouse is the latest addition to the growing list of places combining creative small plate dining and specialized libations. It’s arguably the most sophisticated and ambitious of the genre. It’s also the least expensive; both the drinks and noshes register at $10 per or less. The inspired food has been masterminded by the hotel’s under-recognized executive chef, Stephen Trojahn (along with pastry chef and James Beard semifinalist Khanh Tran), and it spans the globe in reach: lacy tempura vegetables, roasted garlic hummus, pasta nachos, and Swiss air-dried beef. Among the standouts are spicy lamb and grass-fed beef sliders plated with homemade ketchup, pickled onions, and fresh watercress; unique crispy spring rolls filled with fresh blue points, tomato, and basil, paired with Parmesan sorbet; crisp polenta fries; spicy barbecue duck wings (finger licking great!); and skewers of flavorful Thai chicken satay presented with a trio of tasty sauces. A universal swooner is a dense slice of flourless chocolate cake accompanied by an addictive black sesame ice cream. Dishes are served as cooked, so they arrive hot and fresh. The wait staff is as upbeat, patient, and hard-working as any around.


Storefront - Watermark
Photo by Craig Bares

Cocktails Extraordinaire
To do justice to the extraordinary drink program in just a paragraph is near impossible. It’s unlikely you’ve experienced cocktails as uniformly stunning in their sensual appeal as these, designed by the New York–based specialty mixology enterprise Alchemy Consulting. The artisanal components include specially developed syrups (the jasmine and ginger bases are knockouts), a host of housemade bitters, fresh-squeezed juices, tableside flourishes that include mint “spanking” and orange zest flaming, and even a special ice program that’s just short of self-parody.


There are more than two dozen handcrafted libations and it can take up to 10 minutes for a drink to be completed, so a seat at the bar allows a front-row view of the magic.

Fine Print

Getting There, Getting In: Public parking is available in the Block E garage (enter on 7th Street). There’s a valet service available at the hotel entrance for $15.

Hours: Tu-Sa 4 p.m.-2 a.m.

Noise Level: Loud background music makes conversation difficult.

Kids: An adult experience.

Cards: AmEx, Diners, MC, Visa.

Entrée Prices: $10 and under.

Extras: Wine pours start at $3 per glass.

Handicap Accessible.

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