|
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
Bradstreet Craftshouse![]() Photo by Craig Bares
Address Graves 601 Hotel, 601 1st Ave. N., Mpls., 612-312-1821 The Scene Tucked away on the ground level of the Graves 601 Hotel, this stylish homage to John Scott Bradstreet—an early 20th century Minneapolis designer known for his eponymous Craftshouse atelier—offers four settings: There’s seating at a counter overlooking the open kitchen, behind a velvet curtain in a plush parlor designed for small groups and amorous couples, in a small dining area with tables and banquettes, and at the handsome 10-seat bar—recommended for those who want to watch the well-trained mixologists in action. The design still carries traces of the former Infinity nightclub, with clean lines and textured wall coverings, but there is a new collection of objets d’art. The clientele tends to be a mix of hotel guests and young professionals out for a leisurely evening of food and impeccable cocktails. The space and experience is not well suited to large parties. Our TakeBradstreet Craftshouse is the latest addition to the growing list of places combining creative small plate dining and specialized libations. It’s arguably the most sophisticated and ambitious of the genre. It’s also the least expensive; both the drinks and noshes register at $10 per or less. The inspired food has been masterminded by the hotel’s under-recognized executive chef, Stephen Trojahn (along with pastry chef and James Beard semifinalist Khanh Tran), and it spans the globe in reach: lacy tempura vegetables, roasted garlic hummus, pasta nachos, and Swiss air-dried beef. Among the standouts are spicy lamb and grass-fed beef sliders plated with homemade ketchup, pickled onions, and fresh watercress; unique crispy spring rolls filled with fresh blue points, tomato, and basil, paired with Parmesan sorbet; crisp polenta fries; spicy barbecue duck wings (finger licking great!); and skewers of flavorful Thai chicken satay presented with a trio of tasty sauces. A universal swooner is a dense slice of flourless chocolate cake accompanied by an addictive black sesame ice cream. Dishes are served as cooked, so they arrive hot and fresh. The wait staff is as upbeat, patient, and hard-working as any around.
There are more than two dozen handcrafted libations and it can take up to 10 minutes for a drink to be completed, so a seat at the bar allows a front-row view of the magic.
|
| |||||||||