Tian Jin

ADDRESS
463 W. 79th St., Chanhassen, 952-934-4111

THE SCENE
From the outside, this site of the former Giant Panda portends little more promise than the scores of other Chinese food emporiums that populate similar strip-mall locations around the Twin Cities. It’s the inside that provides the first real hint that something above average might be going on. The combination of freshly painted red-hued walls, a collection of handsome Asian screens, well-spaced dark wood tables, and an assortment of overhead lanterns creates a design that’s a cut well above that of the average chop suey joint. And then there’s the clientele—most evenings half or more are of Asian heritage. A glimpse of the artful, aromatic dishes confirms you should prepare for something special.

OUR TAKE
Yes, it’s true. The most authentic and enjoyable restaurant featuring Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine since the beloved Mandarin Yen closed is located in Chanhassen. And yes, Ran can cook—Ran being the restaurant’s owner, Ryan Ran, who attended culinary school in his hometown of Tianjin, China. When it comes to Asian dining, the direct correlation of a restaurateur’s knowledge of preparation to the quality of what emerges from the kitchen hadn’t previously entered my mind. But as I thought about that other local Chinese culinary institution, Rainbow, and its talented owner/chef, Tammy Wong, the light went on. Although Ran isn’t the primary resource in the kitchen—that’s chef Yang Yang—the fact that Ran has a trained eye and palate clearly makes a difference in what’s served here. I sampled more than a dozen specialties—including mandarin beef with golden garlic, chung king chicken (light, colorful, and bursting with spices), head cheese–style ma la beef, herbal cumin lamb, and a knockout of boiled fillet of sole served in a piquant Szechuan sauce—and there wasn’t a single clunker. For the record, I did not taste a single item from the pages of choices of homogenized Chinese fare, from sweet and sour anything to egg foo young to General Tso’s chicken. That’s not what Tian Jin is staking its claim on and that’s not why you should journey here. My recommendation: Leave the ordering in the hands of a knowledgeable server. Convey your likes and dislikes and get ready for something special. The only caution: At times the pace is too swift and at others it can be on the slow side. It’s a small price to pay for a truly memorable experience.

GEOGRAPHY LESSON
Although it’s not a commonly known city, Tianjin is one of the largest metropolises in China, with a population of more than 10 million. It’s a seaport and has a reputation for some of the best seafood in the country. Ran says it’s known as the snack food capital of China and for exotica such as snake, donkey, and grasshopper.

FINE PRINT
Getting There, Getting In: Free parking is available in an adjacent lot. Some menu items, such as chili halibut, require advance notice.
Hours: M-Sa 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Su 4-9 p.m.
Noise Level: Hardly noticeable
Kids: Plenty of noodles, rice, and cream cheese wontons, but no kids' menu.
Cards: Discover, MC, Visa
Entree Prices: $10-$16
Handicap Accessible