Trattoria Tosca

Address

3415 W. 44th St., Mpls., 612-924-1900, trattoriatosca.com

The Scene

The space that once housed ovens for the adjacent Turtle Bread Company bakery is now two compact dining areas. One offers a view of the bustling kitchen, while the other is a long, narrow space with dark wood wainscoting, sponge-painted plaster, evocative light fixtures, banquette seating, and compact tables topped with twinkling candles. The crowd is of the prototypical Linden Hills cut—young folks and baby boomers clad in jeans and comfortable tops.

Our Take

There was much speculation and anticipation about the fate of this storefront, but the end result is a concept that is perfect for the neighborhood and the times. The tight menu of antipasti, homemade primi (in both small and large sizes), and secondi—as well as a handful of side dishes and a couple desserts—is designed to change in daily increments, depending on what’s fresh and available. Think ramps, shell peas, and spring asparagus as examples of May’s offerings. It’s eminently possible to enjoy a filling and satisfying meal of an appetizer, pasta, and a glass of wine for roughly $20. You can elect to go with something unfamiliar, such as a salad of spring greens and confit of conserved tuna topped with fennel pollen breadcrumbs. Or you can settle into comfort zone choices such as a tender pan-seared chicken breast paillard nested in a cracked corn polenta, topped with ramp greens and brown butter, or a thick-cut, grass-fed ribeye layered with sautéed local mushrooms. Either way, count on impressive recipes and skilled preparation. As for service, when was the last time you had a waitperson who took the time to describe everything and render honest opinions? That’s the kind of fresh air you’ll breathe here.

The Next Top Chef?

Proprietor Harvey McLain, who owns Turtle Bread Company and Café Levain, has a keen sense for cooking talent. His decision to trust this newest venture to chef Adam Vickerman, a wet-behind-the-ears 24-year-old, is a great example of that insight. Although Vickerman had been proving his chops at Cafe Levain, McLain concluded he could benefit from expanded horizons. This past winter McLain sent him off on a cook’s tour of regional Italy. The delicious result is a trattoria that’s true to form with a chef who seems poised for great things.