Northeast Social

ADDRESS
359 13th Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-877-8111, northeastsocial.com

THE SCENE
Northeast Social sits at the apex of the city’s independent art scene, near thriving galleries and the Ritz Theater. Its glowing storefront of golden exposed blond brick and a lovingly hand-painted, ornate tin ceiling pays elegant homage to its sturdy, convivial past. Paintings of long-necked ladies (by Nick Harper of nearby Rogue Buddha Gallery) peering over the sleek black tables and long granite bar add a bohemian, if pleasantly eerie, joie de vivre. If ever there was a window into a promising future of good neighborhood dining, Northeast Social is it. The crowd is a mix of neighborhood artists replete with piercings and body art, young professionals with ties askew, and Nordeasters making an evening of it.

OUR TAKE
Chef Eddie Hayes Jr. of Heartland, WA Frost, and i Nonni cooks like a hungry man. The small seasonal menu spans a world of hearty bistro soups, salads, and appetizers, but it’s the entrées where Hayes shows his stuff. If chicken is the mark of a good cook, then a golden, lightly crusted breast crowned with sweet corn, bitter kale, and Yukon potatoes is the mark of a master. The sirloin of Black Angus, with deftly seasoned chevre mashed potatoes, came perfectly charred, medium-rare as ordered. Rainbow trout, wrapped in smoky, lightly salted ham and stuffed with peppery chard, came firm and fresh, tasting of the icy stream it came from. My vegetarian choices—light potato gnocchi napped with delicate tomato cream and basil oil, and a seasonal risotto of lobster, mushrooms, and greens—were too much of a good thing. Each could have benefited from a contrasting side dish for balance and variety. Of the starters, fried okra with matchstick fries kick “bar food” up a notch. Welsh rarebit (or rabbit; legend has the Welsh too impoverished for meat but rich in good cheese) is fine—a mix of Swiss and cheddar, spiked with ale, is melted over blue cheese–topped bruschetta. One night the market cheese plate featured a crisp Iowa blue with nectarous onion marmalade. The classy French onion soup fills a crock with sweet caramelized onions, capped by bubbly, buttery Gruyere. Salads such as greens, crumbled blue cheese, and marinated beets dressed with lemon and dill are a hit; so too is the hefty half-pound burger, capped with fried pickled chilies that pack tart heat.

SOCIAL BELLE
Northeast Social’s partners, Joe Wagner (Al Vento, Nick & Eddie, The Times) and Sam Bonin, serve up eclectic global pours. Wines are marked up less than industry standard and the small selective list covers California, Spain, Portugal, and New Zealand. The “Social style” beers (Flying Horse lager from India, Tiger from Singapore) are served in large bottles with coolers and small glasses for sharing. The soundtrack soars with an eclectic mix of Motown, hip-hop, and contemporary choices. Occasionally through the evening, the bartender clangs a bell and all raise a glass in cheers—perhaps too cute. This lively, pretty, and often noisy place is plenty social enough.