ŌM

ADDRESS
401 1st Ave. N., Mpls., 612-338-1510, omminneapolis.com

THE SCENE
The path to this restaurant, in the former Nate’s Clothing space, begins with a traverse of a first-floor lounge buzzing with club scene. It transitions to a switchback staircase descent that runs past a glittering two-story crystal chandelier and ends at a small reflecting pool afloat with flickering candles. Like many basement settings, it’s a cavernous and stark space—a few columns, gauzy curtains, and pieces of Asian artwork are the extent of the décor—and when the music upstairs is pulsing, the vibe can be disquieting. The best seating is in the row of spacious and comfortable banquettes stretched along one wall. The inhabitants, a mix of local Indian habitués, young couples, and retirement-age devotees of “culinary engineer” Raghavan Iyer are about as diverse a dining group as you’ll find.

OUR TAKE
Billed as “contemporary Indian cuisine,” the food here is a far cry from the ubiquitous joshes, kormas, and masalas that run on for pages at strip-mall holes in the wall. Almost without exception, every dish is a model of sophistication, inspiration, and well-crafted taste. Take, for example, the Kashmiri lamb or roghan josh. In contrast to the familiar version of lamb cubes simmered in red sauce, this knockout features a braised-to-perfection rack rubbed with all sorts of great spices, carved and plated with a fresh and lusty fennel-tomato sauce, a saucer of grilled eggplant pâté, and saffron-infused basmati rice. Or consider chef Iyer’s take on the classic vinegary pork vindaloo. Here the dish comprises slices of tender, succulent braised pork tenderloin with a tangy, garlicky dimension that simply soars. Even a relatively mainstream hunk of grilled filet mignon rubbed with cracked Tellicherry peppercorns and cardamom is sublime in its elegant simplicity. Aside from a dismal appetizer of cold coconut shrimp and a surprisingly bland and ill-conceived rendition of sea scallops, there’s nothing I sampled that I wouldn’t enthusiastically recommend. For dessert, the mango cheesecake and the chocolate nirvana—molten chocolate fondant boldly laced with a hint of cayenne—are the standouts. Unfortunately, there is one similarity to the typical Indian restaurant that needs attention: the service. I’ve long been annoyed by the tendency of wait staff at such places to be too swift in staging food and overzealous in removal of plates. To my dismay, such was my experience at ŌM.

CURRYING FLAVOR
Other than the prolific Madhur Jaffrey, no individual has likely had as great an impact on demystifying and simplifying the food of the Indian subcontinent as ŌM’s culinary czar, cooking instructor and food writer Raghavan Iyer. His latest book, 660 Curries, is a must for anyone interested in this diverse and multifaceted cuisine. Signed copies can be purchased at the restaurant.

THREE GREAT PLATES
+ Patiala Cakes. Maybe the best potato appetizer you’ll ever encounter. These crispy patties are blended with fresh mint, chilies, and red onion, and sided with toppings of tamarind-date sauce and mint-cilantro chutney.
+ Fenugreek Lamb Chops. These chops are grilled to smoky perfection with a subtle combination of ginger, fennel, cardamom, and garlic, and accented with a fenugreek-cream sauce. You’ll want to gnaw every last morsel.
+ Konkan Wild Salmon. This dish of impeccably fresh, flaky salmon is dusted with turmeric, seared, and then poached in a broth of seasoned coconut milk and malt vinegar. It is the chef’s signature creation.