Victory 44

In this town, news of pork belly and trotters moves fast, and Victory 44, sans spin and hype, is drawing crowds to North Minneapolis (or NoMi, the new Nordeast). Come on a Friday, and this shoebox of a place is packed with neighborhood families and kids, middle-aged couples, and foodies chasing charcuterie.

After initially opening in 2009, owners Jodie Heyerdahl and Erick Harcey retooled: They trimmed out the wait staff and brought in chefs Mike Brown, James Winberg, Geoff Hausman, and Bob Gerken, who are having a blast running the show. In this all-hands-on-deck operation, the chefs do it all: expedite, wait tables, clean up, and cook. And man can they cook. The simple chalkboard menu belies this kitchen’s prowess and wit. Playful nibbles such as bitty bacon-topped date cubes and shot glasses of glazed walnut-speckled pumpkin bisque, plus garnishes of house-made dehydrated vegetable chips and vibrant flavored powders (peanut-chocolate powder on a meringue kiss) punch plates up. Try the classic Scotch eggs (please); breaded and quick fried, they split into sunny, molten dreams. Though dowdy-sounding, the white bean soup delivers delicate tastes of ham and croutons in its lush and silky wake. The woodsy porcini-stuffed agnolotti pasta in airy truffle foam joins heaven and earth, but don’t be surprised if the preparation is different next time you order the dish. In essence, this is a cook’s playground, and the eaters are merely there to enjoy the spectacle.

Dessert is all or nothing, a long board dotted with cheesecake swirls, panna cotta cubes, meringue kisses, brownie, and turtle cake. With a flourish, Brown wields a blowtorch to singe the meringues and melt chocolate over the knob of tres leches cake. “This is how neighborhood joints used to be,” he says. “Everyone pitched in— it’s fun.” Maybe not new, but better.

2203 44th Ave. N., Mpls., 612-588-2228, victory-44.com
Restaurant Rater: 85