Nick & Eddie

When the Dream Team left Nick & Eddie’s kitchen (they’re still gone) last summer and the booze left the bar (it’s back), it appeared this underappreciated restaurant would end up another lamented Loring Park loss. But chef Derik Moran—all of, like, 11 years old and paid in mix tapes provided by manager-not-owner Doug Anderson—was promoted up the ranks and has the town talking. Moran’s menu no longer tries to channel gauzy NYC memories, but instead emphasizes exacting takes on unpretentious, familiar fare. It’s a vaguely eccentric experience on all counts, but one that has me convinced Nick & Eddie has found its equilibrium as a restaurant.

The big winner on the menu is Moran’s always-changing appetizer smorgasbord plate, which recently included a spectacular smoked scallop, house pork terrine, dried salami, homemade pickles, and more. Every item is plated with its own complementary sauce. The Nick & Eddie burger remains the only local one topped with a bialy (the fries are addictive). Reuben lovers can’t stop kvelling about the house-made corned beef, kraut, and rye. It’s about the best in town.

I wish the tempura batter were a tad more delicate, but otherwise a rock shrimp app and walleye fish and chips are winners, the latter’s habañero tartar sauce just the thing to make you forget raw, rainy days. Salads are pretty, including a competent tuna Niçoise, a better butter lettuce with Russian dressing, and winning Mississippi greens with beets, bacon, chevre, and fig in a buttermilk vinaigrette.

Jessica Anderson’s legendary breads and sweets are a high point of a Nick & Eddie meal. Go for her butterscotch pudding, lemon curd cake, or ginger cake. The wine list is well-chosen and cheap. Service is laid-back but savvy, so take their advice. And give Nick & Eddie a second look.

1612 Harmon Pl., Mpls., 612-486-5800, nickandeddie.com
Restaurant Rater: 84