The Boxcar

It’s a shorter drive to Prescott than you think, just a hop-skip over the river from Hastings. If you find yourself in these parts, and find yourself hungry, your choices might have been limited to traditional ’Sconnie town bars if not for The Boxcar. Camped in the old Confluence restaurant space, The Boxcar pays more attention and offers a bit more sass than your average pull-tab joint touting High Life.

When you walk through the door, you quickly realize it’s a one-room restaurant, so the bar will be a factor. Starting with the beer, as you often should, the selection is varied and on-trend. Choose a bottle of local craft beer, or perhaps a Belgian, maybe something Oregonian. Potent bloody marys are served in mason jars jammed with vodka-soaked peppers.

The cheeky menu is an entertaining read, and although it reveals a southern edge, it doesn’t go all Billy-Bob on you. Think of it more as a celebration of heat and gravy. That being said, the pulled pork, marinated in Guinness and rosemary, is quite luscious and lovely without the sauce. Burgers get creative, although most were way overcooked. The Backyard Burger had a zippy Worcestershire-laced patty, the Juicy Bluesy was a righteous rendition, and the moist crawdad burger came with killer Louisiana mayo and tangy kitchen pickles. The BLT had great bacon, but it was overwhelmed by thick bread, and the frickles were a greasy mess—and not in the good way.

I’d go back to tackle the family-style pan-fried buttermilk chicken. But has The Boxcar earned pilgrimage status? Not yet in my book, though it has earned a pushpin in the map as a worthy side trip.

211 Broad St., Prescott, Wisconsin, 715-262-2026, theboxcarrestaurant.com
Restaurant Rater: 78