Masa

Address:
1070 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-338-6272, masa-restaurant.com

The Scene
At this new downtown Mexican restaurant, there are no sombreros or maracas hanging on the walls, no TVs tuned to Hispanic soaps. Then again, this isn’t just any taqueria. Rather, it’s a south-of-the-border cantina as modeled by D’Amico & Partners, whose chic vision converts to a bright, high-ceilinged space livened with blown-glass light fixtures, colored tile floors and wainscoting, parachute-cloth hangings, and a smattering of elongated wall paintings. The collection of close-quartered tables and high-back, narrow-beamed wooden chairs crescents around an open-to-view kitchen, while floor-to-ceiling windows front the bustling downtown location, kitty-corner from Orchestra Hall. As for the diners, they run the gamut from boisterous families to suited execs from the Target HQ that rises above the restaurant.

Our Take
When it comes to designing and executing restaurant concepts, Richard and Larry D’Amico and executive chef Jay Sparks don’t make many mistakes. And Masa is no exception. It’s obvious that a lot of thought and effort has gone into the menu, which is definitely a step above the typical pseudo collection of fajitas, burritos, and chimichangas. Chalk that up to the presence of Mexico-born chef Saul Chavez. Indeed, there aren’t many local alternatives where aficionados can feast on pozole verde (pork and hominy stew) or fresh, pliant corn tortillas piled high with shreds torn from a wonderful roast of marinated pork shoulder baked in a banana leaf or indulge in a rich, smoky chowder of corn, roasted poblano, and shrimp. Though the spicing here has been criticized by some as too mild, Mexican cuisine often bears little resemblance to the cliché that is recognized in places such as Minnesota. Balance and robustness is the primary hallmark of Mexican food, with spice levels varying regionally across the country and from dish to dish. But if the heat doesn’t satisfy you, ask for a cup of the incendiary habanero salsa. My only complaints were recurrently tepid tortilla soup and incorrect wine vintage listings. The service staff is well trained, which is typical of a D’Amico operation.

Por Favor
The vast majority of restaurant diners arrive in multiples of two. At many restaurants lately, Masa included, diners are encouraged to share appetizers, but they are served in odd-numbered multiples that cannot be easily or simply shared. Why? I’d settle for an extra tostadita, sope, or whatever for an additional charge.