La Belle Vie

Address: 
510 Groveland Ave., Mpls., 612-874-6440, labellevie.us

The Scene
These dining rooms have never looked so regal and elegant: their wainscoted walls resplendent in fresh coats of warm cream paint, floor-to-ceiling windows draped in gauzy gold fabric, dangling chandeliers sparkling like matronly jewels. From the comfortable arrangement of banquettes and tables, the primary eye-catchers are a smattering of contemporary art and a solid walnut table laden with open bottles of wine. Welcoming and gracious are apt descriptors. As for the patrons, they look to be an older, sophisticated, and affluent lot, sporting furs and designer dresses, pressed suits and ties—attire that pairs well with the sophisticated cuisine.

Our Take
Though à la carte dining is available, do not miss the five-course tasting menu ($65, plus $45 for a supplemental wine flight) or the eight-course extravaganza ($80, plus $55 for wine). It’s superb value. Keep in mind that McKee has cooked in some of the area’s most acclaimed restaurants (D’Amico Cucina, Azur) and was once named one of Food & Wine’s Top Ten Chefs in America. A nine-course tasting menu at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York is $210, while the six-course Grand Degustation at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago registers at $135.

Budget Options
Diners preferring to sample the chef’s whimsies on a scaled-down level and price do have another option. As part of the makeover, the former residents’ parlor is now a comfortable bar and lounge. This is a great spot to enjoy a perfect martini or sip some wine and graze from a modestly priced bar menu of interesting items, such as grilled artisan grilled cheese sandwiches served with a demitasse of fresh tomato soup; oysters on the half shell with assorted sauces (the Bloody Mary granita is a knockout); fritto misto of rock shrimp, crayfish, and haricots vert; and French fries with curry béarnaise and ketchup.