Fugaise

Address:
308 Hennepin Ave. E., Mpls., 612-436-0777, fugaise.com

The Scene
The entrance to Fugaise is through a long, narrow corridor leading to a hostess stand. A few steps past that is a compact, three-seat bar. And beyond that is an open, angular, and windowless taupe dining salon outfitted with linen-clothed tables, a hammered-tin ceiling, parquet floors, and a gallery of abstract paintings by local artist Daren Steneman. It’s an intimate, albeit minimalist, setting that you’ll either love or detest. The noise level is subdued and the muted lighting just perfect for a romantic tête-à-tête. As for the clientele, the diners tend to be a bit snazzier and refined than at places with similar prices and pedigrees. There’s no aspiring to “scene” status here.

Our Take
Chef-owner Don Saunders has paid his dues in a variety of local kitchens including Vincent, La Belle Vie, and A Rebours. To say his ever-changing and seasonally adjusted, moderately priced (and small) French menu is bold, sophisticated, and creative borders on understatement. A good example is a potato-leek chowder that starts out with a creamy, vichyssoise base, is textured with dices of potatoes and smoky ham, edged with white truffle oil, and topped with a perfectly timed poached egg that, when broken, lends its runny essence to the mixture. Indeed, there’s a lot going on, but it all comes together. Or take Saunders’s scallop appetizer: A first reaction to the combination of tender mollusks, squid-ink risotto, tomato confit, and sherry vinaigrette is “flavor train wreck imminent.” But after the first luscious bite, any skepticism is quickly dispelled. Something as elemental as a rib eye of beef even earns respect. Slices of tender, rosy meat deliver a wonderful grilled flavor and are well matched with a sauté of wild mushrooms, a Marsala reduction, a bed of braised Swiss chard, and a stack of thick frites.

My only real disappointment was a limited dessert list that features a dense olive oil cake and a chocolatey, loose crème caramel. As for the service, it’s about as good as it gets—servers were attentive, knowledgeable, and not reluctant to talk about the food. And with good reason!

French Lesson
Fugaise is not to be confused with fougasse, as in La Fougasse, the restaurant in the Hotel Sofitel. Fougasse is a French flatbread that is typically brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with herbs before baking. Fugaise, on the other hand, is French slang for “fake.” It became a nickname for chef Saunders due to his habit of not showing up for gatherings. Fugaise is, as long as Saunders shows up, the real thing. The Sofitel can only look on in envy.