Kozy's

Address:
Galleria, Edina, 952-224-5866, kozyssteakandseafood.com

The Scene
Updated, circa 1933 Nordeast supper club meets the Twin Cities’ most upmarket shopping mall. That’s the short version of the Kozy’s story. This Shea–designed wood-and-fieldstone restaurant is owned by Bill and Dana Kozlak, grandchildren of Jax Café founders Joe and Gertrude Kozlak. Their third-generation savvy is reflected in the handsome layout of well-spaced booths and white-clothed tables. The crowd ranges from coiffed and fashionably attired matrons to families out for a special occasion. And while views of the surrounding shops and parking lot aren’t in a league with the legendary Jax trout stream, they are de rigueur suburban dining circa 2005.

Our Take
One glance at the menu leaves no doubt that Kozy’s is targeting stolid Midwestern tastes. From calamari to shrimp cocktail to bone-in tenderloin and sautéed walleye, the fare is familiar. If you’re into bold flavors and creative preparations, look elsewhere. As adventurous as it gets is a veal osso buco that, though tender, was inundated in an overpowering tomato demi-glace.

Target: Kincaid's?
Kozy's menu (very similar to Jax Café’s, actually) and price point says it is intent on delivering the Jax experience in twenty-first-century surroundings. Across the street from Kozy’s is the sexy, ambitious Louis XIII, but Kozy’s main competition is inevitably up I–494: Kincaid’s, the area’s most-popular special-occasion restaurant. The Kozlaks are veteran restaurateurs who know their clientele, and they seem to be taking on their south metro equivalent. Kincaid’s is similarly pricey, also is not on the culinary cutting edge, and has staked its reputation on a flawless customer experience, much like Jax has in Nordeast. We have the makings of a special-occasion restaurant battle royale. Or is there room for two?