Tum Rup Thai

Address:
1221 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-824-1378

The Scene
Although this restaurant’s high-ceilinged, angular, open-ductwork design is fundamentally utilitarian, the added effect of floor-to-ceiling windows, a dramatic mosaic column, Asian statuettes, bamboo accents, and elegant inverted parasol light fixtures creates a space that’s handsome and eye-catching. The tiny bar is almost an afterthought. Tum Rup’s casually dressed, relatively subdued clientele seems drawn from the rapidly growing community of neighborhood apartment and condo dwellers, who are bringing some welcome vitality to the Lake Street corridor east of Uptown.

Our Take
With the opening of Tum Rup Thai, the Uptown area now boasts three Thai restaurants—there’s also Chiang Mai Thai in Calhoun Square and Sawatdee up Hennepin. Although there is a great deal of similarity in the appetizers, noodle dishes, and stir-fries at all three spots, Tum Rup emerges with a decided edge when it comes to flavor and authenticity. Overall, the curries sparkle with more character, the classic sautés spring from the woks with more engaging textures, and fish dishes are consistently moist and topped with pleasant combinations of nuts, fruits, and vegetables.

As with so many local Thai restaurants, meat portions are modest, there’s a boring sameness to vegetable choices, and oversaucing is rampant. Nonetheless, there are several standout dishes, including lacily battered calamari, solidly constructed fried spring rolls, deservedly best-selling rice noodles with tangy red curry sauce, and delicious fried noodles tossed with onions, tomatoes, bell pepper, Thai basil, and meat or veggie protein of your choice.

Problems here all relate to service. Waits for beverages and food were long, and the staff wasn’t sufficiently conversant with the fare to make confident recommendations. Also, wines were frequently out of stock.

A Competitive Landscape
Lest we forget that the restaurant business is highly competitive, even for small, ethnic players, Tum Rup’s story is an emphatic reminder. Why would owner Somsap Hein choose to open a second Thai restaurant only a few blocks from her Hennepin Sawatdee franchise? According to general manager and spouse Steve Hein, Tum Rup was a defensive play. When the former Wild Noodles spot became available, rumor had it that another Thai restaurant was considering the site. Rather than face increased competition and oversaturation, the couple decided to open their own, more upscale restaurant, and crossed fingers, hoping it wouldn’t cannibalize the Hennepin trade. So far, the bet seems to be a winning one.