Istanbul Bistro

Address:
15718 Wayzata Blvd., Minnetonka, 952-476-7997

The Scene
Located in the same off-the-beaten-path, mini–strip mall spot that originally housed Grazzi, this Turkish café is populated with casually attired, map-toting savvy travelers plotting their next global culinary adventure. Although the indigenous touches are limited to a smattering of bas-relief pictures of Mediterranean scenes, some copper pots, and ersatz grape vines, the long, dark-wood dining room of cloth-draped, glass-topped tables and booths all but sparkles with lively conversation and the aroma of freshly seasoned foods. Istanbul Bistro is a much-welcomed ethnic oasis in the desert of western suburban dining.

Our Take
Aside from a handful of hit-and-miss Turkish specialties and differences in nomenclature, the menu at Istanbul Bistro is very much like that at other Greek and Middle Eastern restaurants that dot the Twin Cities landscape. Lamb and assorted kebabs predominate, and almost without exception, they are first-rate. Particularly notable is the incredibly tender shish kebab called kuzu sis. It’s such a standout because owner/chef Ismail Karagoez takes the time not only to cut off the silver skin covering the chunks of lamb, but also rubs seasonings on the meat to tenderize it. He has a sense for grilling that’s reflected in his chicken and shrimp kebabs, which emerge from the grill succulent and effervescent with herbal flavor, but not overcooked, as is so often the case. The massive spinach pie is fresh-tasting and flaky, and a special roasted pepper spread called ezme is a distinctive, unconventional, and refreshing mixture that’s well worth trying. Scallops kumkapi—a generous serving of large, pan-seared scallops topped with a fusion combination of mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, and a white wine–feta sauce—is worth a go, but skip the pedestrianly seasoned, rice-stuffed grape leaves, the relatively bland hummus, the excessively oniony tabbouleh, and the commercial-quality döner kebab (gyros).

Service is cheerful, attentive, outgoing, and about perfect for a low-key restaurant of this kind. Combine that with bargain prices, and it’s hard to go too far wrong at Istanbul Bistro.

Where’s the Wine?
Considering that wine production began in the region of Turkey some 6,000 years ago, I was puzzled by a complete lack of Turkish wines here. The explanation turns out to be another one of those convoluted state regulations that denies Minnesotans access to so many interesting things. Restaurants are required to purchase their inventory from local distributors and since none of them has seen fit to stock Turkish wines, proprietor Karagoez can find none to purchase to serve at his restaurant. At least you can cry in your Turkish beer—in this case, a light lager called Efes Pilsner.